Re: [DML] biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes

["therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxx>]

Wiring up tweeters into the dash shouldn't be a problem at all. My crossover is 
located under the drivers seat, and the head unit powers everything. 4X45 
watts. Unfortunetly, I've no idea how exactly the wiring was done. I chose how 
what I wanted, and commissioned to have the work done. But tweeters in the 
dash with the treble turned up high enough can become powerful enough to 
be painful to the ears. The high notes will go up, bounce off the windshield, 
and flood the compartment with sound. It sounds great when playing music 
with both low base, and high notes like classical music, and electronica.

For the kickpanels speakers, I'd reccomend to go with straight component 
speakers. You won't need multiple channels if the tweeters above are hitting 
the high notes. Let them use all their power to pump out midrange. The same 
goes for the speakers that you put onto/into the back panel. Let them do the 
midrange work as well.

Now for the stock speakers in the rear, I'd reccomend a set of 2-channel ovals. 
That way you'll be sure to also get a nice mice of things from in the rear. The 
biggest concern here is surface area. You're best best is either sticking with 
the stock 4x10", or perhaps 4x6". But you want to make sure that you use 
whichever one has the most surface area. Which one does, I've no idea. 
You'd have to do the math on that one.

If you don't install subwoofers, then change the rear component speakers 
over to 2 or 3-channels. Otherwise, leave them be. The "traditional" 
installation method has been to install the woofers into a custom box on the 
rear parcel shelf. This is ok, but what then is the point of having the parcel 
shelf then? So in turn, this isn't my favorite method. That and I perfer to have 
everything as hidden/stock looking as possible.

Under the dash there might be room to install a 6 1/2" bazooka tube on each 
side. The problem here though is that they'll just 'fire' the sound waves into the 
sides of the car, depending upon the length that you choose. Otherwise it may 
be worth your time to install custom ported boxes with 2 speakers on each 
side so that they are directed twards the floorboard. Slap the floorbards with 
your open palm, and they'll sound just like a drum. Since these panels 
resonate so well, they'll also contribute to road noise. My advice is to install 
nose noise deadening material that you can also remove easily. That way 
fore regular driving, the ride will be comfortable, but you can pull it out for 
times when you want to cruise around and show off the system.

Another option that I'm looking at doing myself, albeit a radical one, is to 
possibly install divders in the rear pontoons (ahead of the antenna & air 
intake), and install woofers with foam baffles behind to protect them from the 
elements. That way I could just use the entire rear pontoons as bandpass 
boxes and not worry about having to sound proofing them. Or perhaps 
depending upon how it sounds with a test speaker, doing something simular 
with the front pontoons either/or.

I hope this not only helps you a bit, but also gives you a few ideas for future 
projects as well!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Robert, Martin, etc. - 
> 
> maybe what i need is suggestions on what i should be doing. replacing the 
> rear speakers in their stock location with something acoustically better, or 
> building something into the rear wall.