Corrected: Torsion bar stuck to retainer

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

I *TOLD* you I had a sleep deficit...

Just re-read below. Major typo -- just substitute the word "torsion
bar" everywhere I mention hex head tool in the "retainer" and should
be OK. Now you know why I let Dave perform the operation! 

Bill.

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> If I understand Dave Swingle, your problem likely was hex tool not
> seated completely in retainer (obviously came loose once -- lucky you
> didn't crack the back window too). If tool is not fully seated, will
> distort splined end of torsion bar just enough to lock into retainer.
> Fellow I travelled with had same problem. Dave was able to slowly rock
> it off with small pry bars on either side of retainer (where bolts
> attach to the car).
> 
> To avoid this, he repeatedly raps the hex tool into the retainer with
> a hammer throughout the whole procedure. 
> 
> Torsion bar will also freeze into receptacle at front of car -- have
> to use same hex tool in the other direction to literally "crack" free.
> 
> Note that over torqued torsion bars will tear the metal plate over the
> back window loose from the car and distort it. Our cars have precious
> little metal in them to begin with -- don't want to mangle what's there.
> 
> I watched Dave's every step. I understood everything he did. And I'm
> still not going to attempt the procedure myself. Perhaps one day, but
> not now. If there's a club or *able* mechanic within any sort of
> driving distance, I again recommend making the trip, even if it's an
> overnight.
> 
> Add to the list of things you can tear up: the torsion bars themselves
> (apparently even a minute scrape will magnify into a major fracture
> under their stress). 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939