brake runout specs (revisited)

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>]

I've heard some bad clunking noises long enough under my car, so I did a
complete inspection of every suspension component and found no problems. I
suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the rear
fascia off to tighten them. Anyway, while I had the car up in the air with
the wheels off, I decided to check my rotor runout since I told y'all that
I'd eventually get back to you about it. My front cross-drilled rotors had
no runout that I could measure, but the rear ones are a different story.
Here are the specs:

Left rear run-out (inside) 0.0275 in / 0,70 mm
Left rear run-out (outside) 0.0205 in / 0,53 mm
Rotor thickness uniform @ 0.476 in / 12,09 mm

Right rear run-out (inside) 0.0270 in / 0,69 mm
Right rear run-out (outside) 0.0260 in / 0,66 mm
Rotor thickness uniform @ 0.484 in / 12,29 mm

Compared to David T's spec of .0025" or Jan's of 0,15 mm, mine are way off.
Now here is the rest of the situation: My brakes seem to be working fine
with no pulsation whatsoever. I am getting some occasional squeal on the
right side, but I don't see any glazing. If I leave the rotors alone, then
I feel like that excessive(?) wobble is going to wear my calipers out. If I
have them turned, then doing some math indicates that when they are through,
my rotors will be less than 11,7mm which according to Jan & DMC Joe is going
to be too thin. And these are almost new rotors from PJ Grady. These are
supposed to be premo parts. A local brake guy told me that all new rotors
should be turned before installed on the car just for general principle's
sake.

So what should I do? Turn them or leave them alone?

Walt Tampa, FL