Re: repairing OEM fuel sender

["jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

Some on the list have claimed success in "repairing" the OEM fuel 
sender. IMHO the OEM sender is a piece of cr-p. It is way too flimsy 
and prone to misreading and failure. The warning light is unreliable 
even when it works. The best thing you can do for it is to retire it 
to your "old parts box". Even I will admit a Tankzilla is expensive 
but once you put it in you will probably never have any doubts about 
fuel quantity. If you figure what it can cost if you run out of gas 
once or twice it makes it a little easier to accept the price. Even if 
you get the OEM sender to work how long will it work and can you ever 
trust it? On my old OEM sender the float seemed to have swollen and no 
longer moved freely inside the tube. I suspect between the aweful fuel 
additives and age it wrecked it. The Tankzilla seems to be fine.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have 
discovered
> that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these 
--
> mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections.
> 
> The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of 
driving
> for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that 
4/4?)
> 
> Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is 
likely that
> I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And 
I'm sure
> the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while 
dry.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Walt Tampa, FL