Re: Clutch master expiration date

["tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx>]

Mark - I have been accumulating a great deal of experience recently 
with these items. I've been working with two fellow PNDC members on 
their cars. The adjustable link is a good thing, because you can 
take up any existing wear in the various joints of the linkage 
system, and obtain maximum pedal travel and fluid movement. The more 
volume of fluid you can move, the more travel you will get with the 
slave cylinder. After the clutch hydraulic system is fully installed 
and bled, adjust the length to obtain about 1/16" pedal travel before 
the pushrod "feels" resistance from the master cylinder. That's 
where I set mine, and it works great. The fluid line can be replaced 
with the car up on stands, as long as it is high enough so that you 
can maneuver around safely. It is best to have two people working on 
the bleeding operation ... one to "pump and hold" the pedal, and the 
other to release and tighten the bleed screw. You can stick a drain 
tube from the slave cylinder bleed screw into a jar with fluid in it, 
and do it solo, but it's difficult to get 100% fresh fluid in the 
system this way. I personally modified my new slave cylinder to 
allow for gravity bleeding with no pumping required, but the 
modification is not reversible, and requires some special tooling, 
miscellaneous fittings and things, and some mechanical skill. 

Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxx> wrote:
Can I set up the adjustable link to the 'oem'length so I do not 
damage the new cylinder? Does anyone know what that length is?
> 
> Also
> 
> 1) is it possible for me to bleed the system myself or will I need 
> help as I assume?
> 2) will I need to have the car on a lift in order to replace the 
> plastic clutch line or can I do it on stands?