Re: [DML] Cold start problems

[dherv10@xxxx]

Wilhelm, You could have several things going on.

<< When I turn the ignition key the engine starts, but stops after a second - 
same thing happens the second and sometimes the third turn.
If the car is starting pretty fast, then the cold start valve more than 
likely is working OK along with the accumulator. That tells me you have 
pressure on the fuel system. You can UN screw and check the cold start valve 
to see if it is spraying gas. If it's just for a second. Then the Thermo Time 
Switch could be defective. should be 7 to 8 sec. You could also have a loose 
connection.

Then, the engine starts and runs at a very low RPM - the car shakes and 
jumps up and down. This may be an idle problem with the idle speed motor 
circuit. The micro switch or the motor it's self. Also, when you get the 
engine up to normal operating condition try adjusting the air flow meter. The 
control plunger may be to far down at rest position and starving the system.

If I use the accelerator pedal the engine chokes.
The other thing could be the Warm up regulator. It allows the fuel 
distributor control plunger to rise by adding less pressure to enrich the 
system. They are getting very old and beginning to fail a lot. I have sent 
three out in the last month. One went to Europe. 
After 15-20 seconds of shaking, the engine speeds up and reach normal idle 
speed, but it needs to warm up 2-3 minutes before I start driving, if not - 
the engine chokes again. This sounds like a Warm Up Regulator, The cars are a 
little cold nature, and the colder it is the more pronounced it could be. 
Here in Dallas, Texas we don't really have the cold problem that It seems you 
do. Maybe someone in a colder climate can help even more. 

The cold start valve # is 0-280-170-400.

John Hervey
www.special T auto.com
Home of Where have all the Cowboys gone.