Re: fuse #5 refuses to live

[jtrealty@xxxx]

This could be the sign of a very deep problem in the dash wiring. 
Before you tear into it though check the otterstadt switch and see if 
it is grounding or if the wiring going to it is damaged. Refer to 
M:18:10 in your workshop manual, the cooling fan circuit gets it's 
control power from the #5 fuse also. It may take a while to get all of 
the "gremlins" out of the car but eventually it CAN be made into a 
reliable daily driver. In the process you may have to go over previous 
work and undo all of the "fixes" that have been done before you but it 
can be done. In most cases I recomend just going over the whole car 
from the front to the back repairing or replacing all of the 20 year 
old rubber hoses, belts, fuel parts, ignition parts, ALL fluids, 
checking all electrical connections etc,etc. Make sure that all of the 
updates and recalls have been done and I would install at least the 
Fanzilla and Lockzilla. If you attempt to repair the car one problem 
at a time as they come up you will be disappointed when it leaves you 
stuck. The two areas I would concentrate on are the cooling system and 
the electrical system after replacing the trailing arm bolts and doing 
a 4 wheel alignment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> This morning I left for work, and just a block away, the volt gauge
> dropped to 0, the battery light came on, tach shot up to 100% 
clockwise -
> past 80, the battery light flickered and went off. I got back home 
and
> found that the #5 fuse had blown again.
> 
> Why would this keep happening? The DeLorean is my daily driver. It's 
also
> the only car I have in California. Is the car safe to drive, or is 
this a
> symptom of a deeper electrical problem that could affect other 
circuits?
> 
> -Christian
> 
> PS. Has anyone ever had their car run for a whole week without 
breaking?