Re: New owner

["John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxx>]

Robert, 
I have very detailed info on what to look for and what to do. 
Normally if the starter clicks but won't start or turn over, the mod 
needs to be made. If you have a fax number you can email me privatly 
I will fax the detail instructions. I can also fax relay info as 
well. 
John Hervey

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, rbrogren@xxxx wrote:
> Thank you to all that answered, both here and via e-mail!
> Sorry about the omissions, my first more detailed posting 
disappeared into 
> cyberspace and when rewriting it I omitted some information!
> 
> To DMC Joe:
> - Torsion bar; thanks, I'll replace it.
> - Starter modification; how do I determine if the started has been 
upgraded 
> with the mod? The starter is marked PARIS RHONE D10E59, 12V <--CO, 
Made in 
> France.
> - Heat shield in this case is the one between the muffler and the 
engine. The 
> shield is about 23 inches wide and 8 high. It covers the crank and 
alternator 
> pulleys, but not the water pump, idlers or A/C pulleys. 
> (Previous owner had to replace bushings/seals on some of the 
pulleys, 
> presumably because of the radiated heat from the muffler.)
> 
> To Knut:
> No apologies needed! I agree 100% with getting to the root of the 
problem 
> rather than wholesale part swapping and I will tackle the possible 
problem 
> that way. 
> The reason for my quesion was based on the many relay problems I 
have read 
> about here. If the original components are inherently unreliable or 
prone to 
> age related malfunctions and if better components are available, I 
thought it 
> may be better to replace them all at the same time. 
> It may appear that I am advocating a "shotgun technique", but that 
is really 
> not the case. Please remember that I have less than a week of 
ownership and 
> at this time I am trying to put together a plan of action to assure 
that the 
> right areas are tackled in a logical sequence, i.e., the sequence 
you 
> recommend. IF I find something wrong I want to correct it with an 
improved 
> component, if one is available. (Refer to John Harvey's comments 
about the 
> relays in the same post.)
> 
> To John Harvey:
> My alternator is marked Valeo 3939830, 98R2938T, 14V, 90 A. It 
looks a bit 
> dinky for a 90 Amp alternator if it is of the original vintage! If 
in fact 
> this alternator is too weak for the application it would seem 
logical to 
> replace it.
> Your comments make sense and although any modifications from 
original would 
> be detrimental from a concourse standpoint I think I am more 
interested in 
> making the car more reliable as I move along.
> 
> Thanks again to all, your help is greatly appreciated!
> 
> BTW: Someone posted a switch fix using a spring from a Bic pen. My 
engine 
> compartment switch didn't work, the spring was missing and the Bic 
spring did 
> the job! Small item but big help. Thanks!
> 
> Roger
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]