Re: torque, warped rotors & dust shields

["jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx>]

Be careful in any attempt to direct more air to the rotors. In some 
cases doing so could also direct more water at the brakes when it 
rains and you wouldn't want to do that. If you want to upgrade your 
brake system fix the pulsating pedal, replace the hoses with steel 
braided, get the cross-drilled rotors, and flush with Castrol GTLMA 
dot 4 brake fluid. If that isn't enough then don't ride with your foot 
on the brakes! Good practice reqires torquing the lugnuts to the 
proper torque per application (in this case #60 ft. lbs.) and 
alternating the tightening. At higer levels of torque sometimes you go 
halfway and then repeat at full torque and again after 50 miles of 
driving.You cannot measure torque by untorqueing a bolt, the breakaway 
torque changes everything, try it sometime by torqueing a bolt and 
then loosing it. Some torque wrenchs specificaly warn against 
torqueing "left handed". What warps rotors is inducing a stress by 
uneven torqueing and then overheating the rotors. The front rotors are 
prone to this because they are not "ventilated" ie: they don't have 
ribs separating the faces.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put vents in the front 
brake
> rotor dust shields?