[DML] Re: Replacing heat sheild.
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[DML] Re: Replacing heat sheild.
- From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:47:38 -0000
Wouldn't it be far easier to simply drop the converter? When I gutted
mine it came right out (muffler is stainless, so the two are not
rusted together). Guillotine clamp probably won't survive, but that's
a simple $2 part at any parts house. Reach the converter-Y pipe studs
from the front side of the driver engine cradle.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote:
> Steve - It's okay to jack up the engine after unbolting the motor
> mounts, without disconnecting anything else ... if you just raise
> the engine up the minimum amount to get the heat shield replaced.
> You will put stresses on several different tubes and pipes, but they
> should be okay with it. The oil pan is fairly sturdy, but I would
> personally use the flange where the pan bolts up the the block just
> under the crank shaft pulley. If you do use the pan itself, spread
> the load out with a 2 X 4 across its width. It is a cast aluminum
> piece, so its rather brittle. Watch out that you don't bind the
> exhaust tips on the rear fascia. You only have an inch or so of
> clearance there. You may have to loosen the muffler clamps and
> other attachments to let the muffler rotate down a bit. Have fun!
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > I have to replace the heat shield that goes around the catalytic
> converter. I need a little room between
> > the cat and the frame to do this. I was hoping someone could save
> me some time by confirming
> > that I can raise the engine a few inches after loosening the
> engine mounting bolts only and not having
> > to disconnect anything else. Also, is it safe to jack up the
> engine under the oil pan.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Steve
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