To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
3. lighted door key on early cars...
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
6. Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:50:12 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
Rich, Why not give the details for your panel refurbishing techniques on
the
list. Share your knowledge with the rest of us.
Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: d_rex_2002 [mailto:rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 3:25 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Fire damaged panel refurbishing
> Erik,
>
> I have had some experience with refurbishing burned SS panels.
> The most important issues are how hot did the fire get, what is the
> 'color' of the discoloration and how much is the panel warped?
> Fenders are the easiest to refurbish, then the T-panel, then the doors
> and last the hood (primarily because it is such a large, flat area).
[long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:05:22 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Chock one up for the heat
Yes, the electrical system on the DMC is stock, and it still has the blue
relay. Basically, it works like this:
The light would turn on and off, and when on you could hear the fan(s).
When
the light was off, there was no fan noise. Now, after the overheat and
such,
the light doesn't come on at all, and the DeLorean overheats if not going
more than 40 or so MPH.
So this is what I gather I should do:
Buy Fanzilla and buy the Overheat Protector. The new Fanzillas-they take
the
place of the original blue relay and works from there?
Thanks
John
4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 18:29:22 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: lighted door key on early cars...
Hi lads,
My DeLorean (VIN 3810 - September 1981) has the 2 key system, and the
door key is the one you push the button in its center and a little
bulb lights up. Unfortunately I'm missing all the mechanisms that go
inside this key to make it work, everything from the bulb to the
button. Does anybody have these parts or know where I can get them?
All I have is a big chunky key with a hole in the middle!
Thanks,
John Dore, Boston.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 11:44:31 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
I think you're thinking of a proportioning valve, and they're used on many
more cars than just the "computer controlled" other wise, you'd be getting
the rear wheels locking up all of the time. Under even moderate breaking
a
lot of weight is shifted off of the rear and on to the front. If equal
pressure is delivered to all four brakes (simultaneously even... some
proportioning valves include a fraction-of-a-second delay) it will result
in
the rear wheels locking in the most awkward of manners.
Granted, the Delorean rear-end has some, um, ballast, and I'm not sure how
its system is proportioned front-rear, but I can assure you that many cars
(especially light, FWD configurations) get proportioned regardless of
whether or not they have computer intervention.
Josh Keady
(no D, but I like cars...)
http://www.wizzards.net/keady/
on 7/31/02 6:40 PM, basfe25 at dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
snip
> Pressure
> regulators are used on computer controlled brake systems...not fully
> manual ones like the Delorean.
>
snip
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:44:00 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
In a message dated 8/1/02 11:37:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< HUH? The front and Rear calipers are already on separate lines. They
do not have a common pipe. One pipe for the two front calipers goes
to one port of the brake Master Cylinder and the other pipe for the
rear calipers goes to another port on the Master Cylinders. The
ports on the Master Cylinders are already their own entity (separate
from one another). >>
I think the issue is this. Brakes transform inertia into heat. The more
efficient the materials used to create heat from inertia, and transfer
that
heat to the atmosphere, the more efficient the brake. And the more
efficient
the brake, the less energy (pedal pressure) required to provide the same
braking power. So highly efficient front rotors and calipers, used with
stock
rears, could create a situation where the front/rear braking efficiency
balance is upset, and the fronts could lock up way ahead of the rears. So
you'd want to lower the PSI to the fronts, relative to the rears in order
to
take advantage of thier higher efficiency, (Better feel, and no fade.),
and
still maintain a reasonable balance.....Just my opinion but it makes sense
to
me.
Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:52:53 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Calipers, Tie Rod ends, Electrical Parts Source
For what it's worth,
Looks like the front DMC-12 rotors are from a Jag Sovereign series 1,2 and
3,
1968 - 82 rears. Also on the Double Six 82-86 rear.
My orig DMC rotors hand measured:
254 mm dia, 24 mm height, 12.5 mm thich, 70 mm dia center hole, 4 bolt
The Jags show:
262 mm dia, 25.5 mm height, 12.5 mm thick, 70 mm dia center hole, 4 bolt
Specs came from www.dba.com.au Their #75 rotor.
Probably close enough. No spec on bolt hole diameter or spacing.
Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN