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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: License Plate suggestions
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
3. (unknown)
From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Dallas Mechs
From: "camracerx" <camracerx@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Delorean Financing (other options)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. New tank sender thoughts
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
7. ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
9. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Steering Rack Question/Info
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 00:44:56 -0500
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: License Plate suggestions
I thought for quite a while about this one. What I came up with felt to
be
quite unique. Do you have a place around you that makes custom plate
frames? You ever heard of the phrase "Spread Your Wings and Fly!"? How
about a little play on that.
spread your
GULWNGS
and fly!
GULWNGS is the plate and the rest could be on the frame. Catchy,
enthusiastic, it isn't spelled perfectly (which is good in my book), and
no
BTTF reference!
-Mike A.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:07:57 -0000
From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
Scott
If it ran fine before the control pressure regulator change I would
suspect that there is a vacuum line messed up. The routing of the
lines is tricky and easy to mess up so check the routing. Also, be
sure to check the condition of the lines and be sure the one way
delay valve at the regulator is installed the correct direction.
Harold McElraft
3354
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:15:25 -0000
From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (unknown)
I keep my DeLorean stored for most of the year (I'm away at college)
and it's always a pain to reconnect and then disconnect the battery
each time I want to use the car. I was planning on getting a cheap
jackknife battery cut-off switch when I came across the Battery
Buddy (the website is www.batterybuddy.com). Basically it's a
product that you connect to the battery's hot terminal and it keeps
an eye on how much power is still running through it. When the power
drops past a certain point, it cuts the circuit. It comes with a
remote for resetting the circuit, or you can do it from the unit
itself. You can also set the product to "off," which cuts the power
to the battery manually. (This is a description of the Battery Buddy
III; they have other models with fewer features.)
I haven't ordered the thing yet (I've seen it priced at $55-$70,
which doesn't seem too high to me), as I'm not yet sure if it will
fit in the DeLorean's battery compartment (the Battery Buddy
measures 1-5/8" x 2-1/8" x 2-1/8"). I was wondering if anyone has
tried this product yet, and with what degree of success. (And
hopefully, if the product pans out, new DeLorean owners with battery
troubles won't have to go though any of the headaches I've gone
through.)
What do you guys think?
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 21:31:22 -0000
From: "camracerx" <camracerx@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dallas Mechs
Where do folks in Dallas, Texas prefer to go for DeLorean repairs and
maintenance.
I am buying my first D, after years of lusting.
Would like to have someone give it the once over and perform any
lacking recall upgrades and such.
Chris
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 23:31:41 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Financing (other options)
Jeff and other potential Delorean buyers,
"Smaller scale" Delorean financing is available to potential buyers
that are "better than half way there" but do not have all the funds
available to get their Delorean "now" and pay off the balance over
a small period of time (such as a year or less).
I have sold several of my refurbished Deloreans "on payments" to
buyers that could put 2/3 down and pay the rest off within a year.
These cars usually need detail work, such as fascia repainting,
interior restoration, etc. that a new owner could do while waiting
to pay off the car and get the title upon final payment. In at
least one case, with a long term project car, I was able to extend
the payments to nearly two years, since the new owner is doing a
complete restoration and the car will not be roadworthy before it
is paid off and the new owner gets the title. This may be an option
for you or other potential new Delorean owners.
Currently, I have no long term project cars available, but I will
have an '81 5-speed refurbished car that I will be posting to the
DMCNEWS For Sale web page by January or February if a local club
member does not buy it first. I may also have an '81 automatic to
post by late winter or early spring, depending upon my free time.
So keep an eye on those For Sale ads, there is still some hope yet.
Hope this may help a potential new Delorean owner.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxx> wrote:
> Like many others who saw a glimmer of hope for getting our own D.
>
> snip <
>
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:24:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New tank sender thoughts
Hey all -
Got my new tank sender this past Wednesday from DMC in Texas. Warren said
it would arrive on Wednesday and he was right! I didn't have time to
install it until today, but it was quite easy to do and came with
illustrated instructions.
The tank sender is metal, unlike the original plastic one that I took out.
It has the same kind of three terminal plug like the original one, though,
so it just plugs right in. It also comes with a new thicker seal to
replace the original one. When I first turned the key on after installing
it, the low fuel light came on and it read about 1/16 of a tank on the
gauge. I went to the gas station, filled up with 11.4 gallons. The manual
says the car has a 13.2 gallon tank, which would have meant that I had
about 1.8 gallons left in the tank. So far so good.
I will keep the list posted on my experience with the unit.
Sonny
#3669
---------------------------------
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Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 04:49:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay
Another D is currently being parted out on Ebay. Will eventually get
down to pontoon (with perhaps a frame attached?). If you're truly
serious about restoring 1697, would probably be path of lesser
resistance. Didn't want to say anything before, but these little
silver cars seem to be one step below unibodies after a collision --
no telling how force of impact affected entire body structure (you
already see what it did to driver's rear). I'm sure frame is OK (is
more massive than my Lincolns!). I'm just concerned about everything
bolted to it.
Other thought: rustle yourself up a pitiful fixer upper. The more
pitiful, the better (translated: cheaper). All you need is intact
fiberglass (and a hood & fender). Two people could probably lift off
and transfer to your frame, which conveniently includes the engine &
driveline already bolted up!. Really isn't much to the interior -- you
could transfer yourself over a couple of weekends.
BTW: you didn't mention windshield damage -- did it survive intact?
Keep us posted,
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 00:04:32 EST
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted
Hey there gang,
I am looking to complete my DeLorean collection and I need to
following
items. If you have any you would like to sell, please email me at
P12C16(AT)aol.com
1.) Small Dealer Brouchure
2.) Tri-fold Brouchure
3.) The Prototype DMC postcard of the DMC in front of a
building(its on Tamir's site)
4.) Any other dealer material
Many thanks!
Patrick
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 05:17:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
Hard to say what it is exactly. It could be fuel or ignition. I would
pick ignition to start. The first area to suspect is the ignition
wires, spark plugs, coil, cap and rotor. If all of these check out
make sure the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance are operating.
A stuck mechanical advance would cause this exact problem. If it isn't
electrical it could be fuel delivery. A dirty fuel filter, kinked
pickup hose in the tank, bad or incorrect fuel pump are among the
first things to check. One bad tank of gas can fill the fuel filter up
with enough dirt to plug it up. After removing the filter you could
cut it open to see how dirty it is. Another thing to check the the
throttle linkage. Make sure it opens all the way when you step all the
way down on the pedal. Have someone sit in the car with the motor off
and step on the pedal while you watch the linkage on the throttle
spool. It should hit the micro at WOT (Wide Open Throtttle) and when
released it should hit the idle micro.
David Teitelbaum
vin 19757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Scott, Now that that has been replaced. I would be sure the 02
adjustment is
> now correct. In other words, get the car hot and readjust. Be sure
the spark
> advance/timing is ok. If this doesn't do it, then you many need to
look at
> the injectors. Clean or new makes a big difference.
>
> << My car has no power beyond 4000 rpm.
>
> It was having hard start problems. A new warm-up regulator solved
that
> problem.
>
> Now it won't run past 4000 rpm while driving.
>
> Last spring, I did a major tune-up and it ran fine. My fuel
> pump/suction line/strainer are fine. I have a new accumulator and
fuel
> filter installed. Also the injectors were replaced last spring.
>
> What should I do next? I can't remember if this is a
characteristic of
> a failing coil. The car has about 27K on it.
>
> What do you think?
> >>
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:39:31 -0700
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Steering Rack Question/Info
I am in the process of replacing a torn steering rack boot on the driver's
side.
According to the manual and descriptions by DML members,the rack should be
removed, stood upright with driver's side up, and .3 pints of SAE-EP 90
added to the unit before replacing the boot. Interestingly, a very
reputable local shop here in Denver that specializes in rebuilding racks
says that they pack vitually all their manual racks with grease.
Is the Delorean fluid-filled manual rack unusual? Is there an advantage to
one over the other?
I also discovered the driver's side rack boot to be identical to that of a
Fiat Strada. The rack boot from the Fiat 128 had been mentioned on one of
the cross-reference lists as a replacement, but I found it to be shorter
and
did not have the additional small bellow on the end (hence the difference
in
length).
Steve
#3542
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