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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: High Hood
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
2. Re: Accumalator
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Accumalator
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Accumalator
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Accumalator
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Bargain DMC Alert
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. torsion bar performance?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Delorean For Sale in Ohio
From: "mrwillis5050" <glovermr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Octane Rating (was Accumalator)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Accumalator
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 01:08:11 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: High Hood
In a message dated 12/12/2001 11:06:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Actually the hood is quite adjustable. There are rubber stops at each
upper corner that can be screwed up and down into the body, and I
believe that the latch is also slightly adjustable.
Did you have the fenders off the car? You may have reinstalled them
missing the usual pile of shims between the fiberglass and the
fenders. I've seen cars with as much as 1 cm of spacers/washers in
between the fender and the fiberglass at the top edge. The production
tolerances on the fiberglass underbody were far from perfect. >>
Although the above information is correct, based on my experience, if
the
fascia, hood, fenders and related hardware were taken off, the most common
way to adjust a "high hood" is to adjust the two hood hinges at the front
of
the bonnet.
The adjustment is very straightforward, although the high beams & low
beam lights must be removed to gain proper access in order to raise the
hinges to return the hood to proper height.
Upon correcting the "gaps" on my former 1981, removal of the
aforementioned hardware was necessary, and an involved process of correct
installation was necessary. Upon completion the hood was slightly higher
at
the rear. Minimal adjustment was necessary to the hinges, and after
adjustment, the hood was returned to an aesthetically pleasing appearance.
Historically speaking, The cars came out of the molds on a continuous
24
hour basis at Dunmurry. There were several molds utilized during
production,
and on occasion they would need some "tweaking" in order to service and
maintain them as the molds encounter considerable pressure and wear during
the VARI process.
Mold were removed from production and serviced on a routine basis.
The fiberglass bodies can differ as much as 1/4 inch in some areas of
the
car. This information was provided to me from former DMC chief engineer
Michael Loasby.
In real world manufacturing, 1/4 inch difference is a considerable
amount
of movement, as body panel alignment and door openings can be greatly
effected. This could further explain the "gaps" found between the fenders
and
door on some mid 1981 cars.
Seasons Greetings
Mike Pack
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:47:19 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Accumalator
My car also began bucking this morning for the first time. Fuel is
completely full and voltage levels normal. I put premium gas in it for the
first time since I;ve owned it. I know these engines are rated for 91
octane, but premium is 92. Could this adversely affect the engine
performance?
Where is the inertia switch?
Adam
>From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Accumalator
>Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:19:23 EST
>
>Nick, The accumulator doesn't have anything to do the with the bucking,
it
>just holds pressure on the system after the car is turned off.
>#1. My first question is: How old is the fuel pump
>#2. How much gas was in the tank
>#3. Does the bucking start when the voltage goes down to 8 volts.
>Answers to the question:
>#1. If the pump is old and as the level of gas goes down the pump will
not
>self prime it's self. The roller bearings that actually do the pumping
will
>wear and the space in the pump will widen and this could be one problem.
>Some
>cars have a primer pump totally immersed in the tank. They must have had
>some
>forsite into this problem.
>#2. The level of gas coupled with the old pump will have a harder time in
>keeping gas to flow. Thus a bucking if it misses a beat.
>#3. If the voltage drops that low, then the relay in the RPM relay will
>open
>and shut off the pump for an instant. Thus the bucking.
>#4. Check the connections to the Inertia switch. If they are not tight,
>they
>will heat up and seperate for an instant and you will have the bucking.
>John Hervey
>http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 00:45:57 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Accumalator
The inertia switch is located just to the left of the clutch pedal,
and in that area for automatics as well. It's a little black box
with a button on top. This switch allows power to the fuel pump
(among other things), so if the connection is intermittent, the power
to the pump will be also. The theory behind the switch is that power
will be shut off to the pump in the event of a collision or roll-over
to reduce chance for a fire. The switches are known to be a problem
item. Putting good fuel in the car should not cause poor performance.
This probably has nothing to do with your problem, but I had a
"bucking" problem some time ago, and I traced it down to a spark plug
wire coming loose at the distributor. All I had to do was "plug and
play".
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> My car also began bucking this morning for the first time. Fuel is
> completely full and voltage levels normal. I put premium gas in it
for the first time since I;ve owned it. I know these engines are rated
for 91 octane, but premium is 92. Could this adversely affect the
engine performance?
>
> Where is the inertia switch?
>
> Adam
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:59:37 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Accumalator
Adam and anyone else,
You are wrong on the octane subject. Remember that the car was made in
Europe and the specs for the engine are based on European standards. The
are
two different methods for the octane rating. That 91 refers to the
"research
method" which is used in Europe and it equals to about 86 using the "R+M/2
method" used in US.
If you go to ANY gas station in US there is a yellow sticker on the pump
that has the octane rating and method for that rating. In US it is R+M/2
method.
So, for all you guys in US - the DeLorean engine is rated for 86 octane
gas
and it really doesn't do much good to use the more expensive premium
(well,
maybe for the owner of the gas station it does). It's just more expensive.
On the other hand, if your car seems to run bad on the 87 octane gas it
means that it might need a tune-up because there is something wrong going
on.
I always use 87 gas in my D and it always starts at the touch of the key
and
runs beautifully.
Take care everyone!
Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx - tomciodmc'AT'poczta.onet.pl
VIN 6298 (FOR SALE)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
<SNIP>
> I put premium gas in it for the
> first time since I;ve owned it. I know these engines are rated for 91
> octane, but premium is 92. Could this adversely affect the engine
> performance?
>
> Adam
--
Tego nie znajdziesz w zadnym sklepie!
[ http://oferty.onet.pl ]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:51:53 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Accumalator
Adam, Octane rating won't effect the bucking just make it run better. The
voltage to the fuel pump or the ground is most likely the problem. Be sure
to
check the wring at the interia switch. What about # 7 fuse. The other
place
would be a intermittingly defective RPM relay which I can fix. Fuel pump
could be acting up.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:56:30 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bargain DMC Alert
Now for the other end of the spectrum. Just posted up one for $7500 -
details at http://www.dmcnews.com/buynsell.html
As usual no affilation, could be a parts car.......
Dave Swingle
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:15:48 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: torsion bar performance?
Do our torsion bars work better warm vs. cold?
I know the struts do... but my doors will latch with my bad struts now
that
it has cooled down to 40ish.
---------
I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make
accidents."
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 07:45:22 -0000
From: "mrwillis5050" <glovermr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean For Sale in Ohio
Hello everyone,
I hoped this day would not come so soon, but I must part with my
Delorean. A combination of factors all had their hands in this, but
a new job with a nasty commute is the final nail in the coffin. I
have loved this car, loved driving this car, and loved making new
friends through this car. But now I have to find it a new home. I
have set up a website to showcase my car, and here is the address:
http://www.geocities.com/mrwillis5050/
It is an 81, 5-speed, grey interior, 43,000 miles and in great
shape. I am asking $14,000 for the car, looking for a reasonably
prompt sale within the Delorean community. The car is located in Bay
Village, Ohio. Please contact me with any questions, or pass the
info along to anyone who may be looking. I also wanted to take a
moment to thank everyone who has personally helped me along the
journey that is Delorean ownership (you know who you are), as well as
the DML as a whole, who makes it possible for somebody like me to own
one of these great cars. I will continue to lurk here as I always
have, and will be looking to jump back in as soon as I get settled.
Happy Holidays!
Max Glover
#5284
glovermr(AT)email.uc.edu
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:43:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Octane Rating (was Accumalator)
--- Tom Niemczewski <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> So, for all you guys in US - the DeLorean engine is
> rated for 86 octane gas
> and it really doesn't do much good to use the more
> expensive premium (well,
> maybe for the owner of the gas station it does).
> It's just more expensive.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
UNLESS, of course, you have a turbo(s) or have raised
the compression ratio (Houston Engine?). Then the
higher octane rating means less/no pinging and that
means much longer engine life.'
Dick Ryan
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:00:41 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Accumalator
Over here in the UK, standard unleaded is 95 octane and super unleaded is
98 octane. I've
only put standard in my DeLorean so far, and HAVE had bucking problems,
but traced it to
a blocked fuel pickup filter. I have now butchered the "question-mark"
shaped hose and
inserted an in-line pickup filter, which as of last night when I drove 120
miles, works
beautifully.
(The reason I put in an in-line filter was because of how cheap and easy
it is to get
this particular filter (£6), compared to the inferior standard pickup
filter.)
To go back to the original point, 95 octane petrol works fine. I haven't
tried super yet.
The inertia switch SHOULD be located next to the bonnet release handle. I
say SHOULD
because mine's conspicuously absent...
Martin
#1458
Adam Price wrote:
> My car also began bucking this morning for the first time. Fuel is
> completely full and voltage levels normal. I put premium gas in it for
the
> first time since I;ve owned it. I know these engines are rated for 91
> octane, but premium is 92. Could this adversely affect the engine
> performance?
>
> Where is the inertia switch?
>
> Adam
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