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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Acceleration Problems,
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: High idle speed
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: tempurature and malfunctioning tach
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Fuel Gauge
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
5. RE: Freon direct replacements
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Freon direct replacements
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Freon direct replacements
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
8. A/C refrigrant, some answers
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:18:12 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Acceleration Problems,
The first thing to check is the frequency valve. It should be buzzing
like an angry hornet on the right side valve cover. This is the fuel
enrichment circuit and if it isn't working it makes accelerating
difficult. The usual culprit is the lambda relay which provides power
to the circuit and has a tendency to fail.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have an auto 81 DeLorean and when I drive it after about 1/2 an
> hour of driving I can no longer press the accelerator to the floor
> without the engine dying. It does not stop completely but it is as
if
> I have let go of the accelerator, as I lift my foot back up it
> suddenly picks up again? The tank is full of fuel and is there is no
> debris in the tank as I cleaned it earlier this year. This was the
> first time I had driven the car for over 30-45 mins as I have only
> just started driving it since my 21st birthday.
>
> Any help would be appreciated,
>
> James RG
> England.
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:13:12 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: High idle speed
Make sure that the throttle cable isn't sticking and that the throttle
spool is moving all of the way to idle. Check at the idle position
that the idle micro is clicking on when the throttle is returning to
idle. It seems like there is a delay in the idle system comming on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)"
<arne.hofmann@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello,
> when I start my car I have a high idle speed of about 2000RPM
> for about 20 seconds until it comes down to about 800RPM.
> Unfortunatly there is no difference, when when the engine is warm
> or hot.
> I measured the thermistor - about 1-2kOhm in warm condition - s
> 1o the thermistor is doing fine. All connections are ok. Any ideas ?
>
> Thanks
> Arne
>
> VIN4949
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Beta LAYOUT GmbH
> Feldstrasse 2
> 65326 Aarbergen
>
> Tel.: 0049 6120 907010
> Fax.: 0049 6120 907014
>
> http://www.pcb-pool.com
> http://www.schablone.de
> arne.hofmann@xxxx
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:47:28 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tempurature and malfunctioning tach
The things you mention are relativly superficial and "easily" cured.
There are many more important things to look for in buying a "D" that
will cost a lot more to fix like rusted out areas of the frame,
leaking radiator, worn clutch, Zillas, recalls, upgrades, etc. Your
best bet would be to find a local Delorean club and get someone who
can lok pver the car for you. You can't expect to buy a 20 year old
used car and not have to spend some money on it. Just tires alone
could cost over $500. Replacing all of the hoses and belts, tune-up
and oil change could cost $$$. Realistically in your first year of
ownership even doing the work yourself could cost $1-2000 depending on
how much you want to do and how much was done already. Try to find out
who the current owner delt with as that Delorean vender may have
records as to what was done to the car or at least what the owner
purchesed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> I am going to look at an 82 dmc with 27k on it which is a strait,
clean, turnkey car, however the tach is said to work half the time and
the water temp stays at 200 degrees. What do you all think it would
take to fix the tach(money and time wise too) and what do you think
about the temp, is this a scary thing on a stock D or is this not that
bad and would be fine with a lower temp fan switch and
thermostat(perhaps the thermostat is stuck half open? Other than that
I have to beleive the car is exactly as it should be. This is the
second time I sent this mesage, becasue the first time I didn't get a
response. I will greatly appreciate it if someone could give me some
ideas.
> Thanks, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:01:32 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel Gauge
Hello
The fuel gauge is not quite working right, only reading 1/2 full, and
maybe
under that (when the tank gets there.) Would there be a way to fix this
simply or is there more to it? Thanks a lot!
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 14:19:51 -0400
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Freon direct replacements
I converted to R134A with a $50 kit from Wal-Mart last month and am very
happy. Our hot days (90 max) here in Michigan are not a real big deal,
but
the Delorean inside gets hot. (Side Clue... put windows nearly all the
way
up to obtain cool enough temperature.) Their adapter/connector for the
fill
side was leaking a little when done, so I removed it and tagged R134A on
the
car. I also replaced both schrader valve inserts prior to refill of
R134A.
That was the source of my slow leak. Just follow the instructions
completely on the kit. Before everyone blasts me about the lower
efficiency,
I am aware and chose to minimize the environmental impact and financial
impact.
Doing my part for the world.
Vin # 11268
Bill Buckner
Instrumentation Supervisor
Electrical and Instrument Dept.
Pfizer, Inc.
Global Manufacturing
Holland, MI Facility
% Phone: 616-392-2375 x-2449
* Fax: 616-392-8267
* Email: william.buckner@xxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: John L. Rahn [mailto:john_rahn@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:45 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Freon direct replacements
Since freon is hard to find, does anyone have any experience with
the "so-called" direct freon replacements?
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 21:56:57 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Freon direct replacements
I converted my 91 truck over to the new puron or what ever it called and I
don't like it. It takes to long to cool down if at all in Texas.
John hervey
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:35:08 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Freon direct replacements
The EPA does not recognize any "drop in" replacements for R-12 meaning
that there is nothing which you can use to "top off" the system if you
have R-12 in it. You must remove all of the R-12 (capturing it to send
for recycling) and replace with whatever susbstitute you choose.
There are many substitutes but none will equal the capacity that R-12
can provide without major modifacations to the system. Many shops no
longer have R-12 in stock because of the high cost ($60 a pound). Find
a large shop or one that does classic cars, there are still some
around, or call a supplier that the A/C contractors use (look in the
phone book) and they can tell you who is still doing R-12 service
work. You must be EPA certified to do R-12 work so many shops get
around that by not using R-12 anymore. Be aware that some of the
substitutes use propane or butane and are not to be used in mobile
applications. Many of the substitutes are just blends of several
different freons and as they leak the system will do funny things as
the different freons tend to leak at different rates. The high side
(head) pressures will also be higher causing the system to run hotter
which deteriorates things like hoses and seals faster. The bottom line
is after you do all of your homework the best option is to stay with
R-12 for as long as you can. The only drawback to staying with R-12 is
that it is a little more expensive to recharge with.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxx> wrote:
> Since freon is hard to find, does anyone have any experience with
> the "so-called" direct freon replacements?
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:36:04 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: A/C refrigrant, some answers
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The Freon vs R-134, etc discussion seems to come up
every summer when the temperatures warm up a bit. This topic has a lot of
coverage in the archives, and although it is informative, has little that
is DeLorean-specific. Further posts on this (if any) will be scrutinized
for content that is specific to the DeLorean.]
I thought I might be able to answer few questions on the A/C
refrigerant topic.
R-134a: In order to convert to it you will need to replace the
following; All rubber gasket/seals (R-134a will eat away at the
original ones that were designed for the R-12 over time), the
Drier/Accum (since the old one will have R-12 oil in it) and the
valves....that's all you need to do. If you want to take it one step
further change the Orifice tube, there is a new redesigned one
especially for R-134a that is a "variable valve" orifice tube that
will make it colder believe it or not. The one that's in the system
now is a standard fixed orifice tube. It's not wrong that someone
would recommend replacing the compressor and the evaporator since
professionals recommend it. By replacing the compressor to one that
is designed to handle the R-134a, you will make the system more
efficient...same thing if you replace the evaporator to a larger one
with the same BTU rating. Yes the R-134a requires higher pressure but
it shouldn't damage any components unless it is over-
charged/incorrectly done.
There is a new alterative to the R-12 out now that is better than the
R-134a and requires less pressure and is much colder and cheaper,
It's called FR-12. From what I understand the R-12 in a few years
will be completely phased out and a lot of refrigeration/ A/C
mechanics are moving away from it since it's getting more expensive
and harder to obtain. You will still need a licensed A/C technician
to do the job, it's not for sale over the counter.
Here's some text from a website I found on the net regarding the
conversion to FR-12:
"To convert a properly functioning automotive R-12 system to FRIGC
(FR-12), an installer must:
Recover and recycle the R12;
Evacuate the system (for approximately 30-45 minutes);
Add approx. 2 oz. of Ester (POE) oil
Charge the system to approximately 80 to 90% of the R12 capacity and
install the under-hood "system identification retrofit label".
Install retrofit fittings on the high and low side service ports;
It's that simple! In some cases, it may be necessary to adjust the
cycling pressure switch on CCOT systems for optimum performance."
For more info: http://www.frigc.com/auto/faq.shtml
And here is more information on converting to R-134a, they give some
recommendations: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic50034.htm
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