Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: No Heat?
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Funny stuff!
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
3. Fascia Paint
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
4. Re: Alternator Question!
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: Molded body panels and applying them to SS door frames.
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
7. Re: interior trim removal
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. movie
From: "Ryan Schooling" <fallguy_one@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:14:56 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: No Heat?
I didn't know that when the vacuum was applied to the water valve that it
would close it. I thought that it was off until the vacuum line turned it
on. Learn new things everyday I suppose :). Sorry if I confused anyone.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548";>Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:16:02 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Funny stuff!
I have to agree...there seems to be some unnecessary junk talk on the list
lately (although I don't read every message). Personally, I have
been nothing but satisfied with the help I have received from the
DeLorean community on the DML. Everyone, especially Dave S., has
been very kind and extremly informative and helpful (and that's alot
in dealing with me, seeing that I don't know jack about D's and am
still learning.) In fact, people make you feel like you're part of
a family here, which really feels great! I just hope I can pay all you
guys
back by helping promote the DML and the DeLorean in general in
my local area.
Keep up the great work guys,
Richard
(Driving a D around the streets of Modesto as often as I can)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 22:23:08 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Fascia Paint
Anyone have any tips on DeLorean Fascia refinishing, straightening and
painting?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 03:36:15 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternator Question!
On most cars the alternater is sized to cover the electric rear
defogger plus about 50% more thats how much of a load it is. The
alternater is not expected to cover the entire load of the vehicle,
the battery is meant to cover some of the peak load. The logic of
this
is that peak load is not continuos load so after peak load subsides
the alternater can recharge the battery. The worst case load is
nightime, hot humid with light drizzle because the wipers, lights,
defrost a/c, rear defogger is on. Under most conditions that doesn't
happen too often. On most cars (not Deloreans) the rear defogger is
shut off by a timer to keep it from running constantly. Maybe that is
a good area to improve, adding a timer to the defogger instead of
increasing the alternater. The origional Ducy was way undersized
which
caused many of the origional problems but the motorola is a better
match. Be careful in changing the pulley sizes. In some cases it is
possible to overspeed the alternater at high engine rpm's and cause
the rotor to explode, they are only rated to spin so fast you know.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Scott, Your correct that the car will only take what it needs as
long
> as the source can deliver. My builder told me that he test at 2000
(
> Factory 3000 ) rpm, 100amp fixed load, ( factory 80 amp load )and
he
Fans= 28 to 30amps
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 03:48:41 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
If the tank is not too dirty you can wipe it out without removing it
from the car. It is not easy to remove and hard to replace. With the
fuel sender and fuel pump removed suck out all of the gas and air it
out. Remove the fuel pickup and baffle and if you have a long skinny
arm and a stick with a rag on the end you should be able to do a good
job. If the residue is sticky or there is a lot of sludge then the
tank should be taken out to a shop. Remove the lower plate and stand
on the tank with your foot and with steady pressure at the rear
downward it will come out. To remove the baffle there is a nut on a
stud attached to the bottom of the tank. Be gentle or you can break
the stud loose. The baffle has to be partialy disassembled to remove
and then by bending it and pulling through the fuel pump hole. It can
be left inside while the tank is cleaned if you can't figure it out.
Don't forget to flush the lines and replace the fuel filter. Unless
the fuel distributer is causing a problem don't replace it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors
etc but I
> David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:24:29 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Molded body panels and applying them to SS door frames.
If you have damaged doors the Doors CAN Be Skinned(I have done it)or
you can pick up damaged doors cheap enough,(with just skin damage)and
sell the virgin doors,to recoupe the costs,and then apply the
fiberglass skins on the Stainless Steel door frames.
Claude
000570
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxx> wrote:
> what about doors? Those would still have to be painted, and I
would imagine
> that a painted door next to a painted plastic or fiberglass panel
might look
> obviously different... I may be wrong.
>
> Jack & Virginia Stiefel
> '81 DeLorean Vin 03461 August 1981 Build NYS Lic: 1981 DMC
> '97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 2.8 6 Cyl -- not the baby 4
> '99 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer Edition
> '01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/ Flames
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 20:44:26 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: interior trim removal
John, you were doing fine until you said to pop the panel over the door
pull. I would never recommend that due to the damage inexperienced owners
may cause. Especially when all you have to do is stick a 10mm socket down
through where the escutcheon trim was (the piece around the lock & latch
buttons) and remove the two bolts that hold the door pull bracket on. Its
relatively simple and a lot less stress on the panel.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:51:38 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel tank cleaning/removal
You can get the tank out by working it from the back of the tank out
first (the narrow end). The front of the tank (wider part) is wedged
in and has a lip under it (where the tank shield sits on). Remove the
coolant lines, don't spread them apart. They are made of aluminum and
can/will fracture if bent. The rear of the tank has to go down first
then you need the slide the tank out a little for the front of the
tank to clear that lip. I did it just by pounding the top of the tank
with the palm of my hand. Try not to use anything sharp to pry the
tank out with, you could puncture the plastic tank.
You don't really have to remove the tank to clean it out. Go to your
local auto store and get a gas pump and pump the rest of the fuel out
and then go to Home Depot and get a can of Acetone and some rubber
chemical resistive gloves. Use the Acetone on a rag and wipe the tank
out, your arm can fit into the fuel pump opening. VERY IMPORTANT:
Make sure you wear the chemical resistive gloves because your skin
will absorb the acetone and make you very ill...absorb enough of it
and it can cause blood poisoning.
To remove the fuel baffle it's fairly simple. Remove the one nut that
is on the stud in the tank very carefully. That will release the fuel
baffle. To get it out of there you'll need to remove the wire
retainers remove the plastic baffle bottom (snaps off) and squeeze
the plastic baffle together to get it through the fuel pump opening.
While you have it out, inspect the Fuel pump screen, if there are any
tears in it replace it. Allot of cars didn't come with the baffle
bottom so if you don't have one, now's a good time to order one and
install it. It keeps water and debris from the pump screen. It helps
if you have the shop manual.
Hope this helped.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I am replacing my fuel distributor and cleaning the injectors
etc but I
> have not started the car yet. Since my car sat I would like to
pull the tank
> out and clean it. How do I go about cleaning it? I removed the
pump, and
> the tank really doesnt look that bad inside but the gas has a
orange/yellow
> tint to it with a few small particles on the bottom of the tank. I
will also
> be replacing some of the fuel hoses running to the back. does the
tank need
> to be professionally cleaned? How do I go about removing some of
the
> components inside the tank? any help would be greatly
appreciated.
> I have the tank shield removed but I can not get the tank to
come out.
> The fuel pump and filler line is removed and the tank is empty.
any ideas?
> I've tried kicking it out from the top but it wont move an inch.
>
> Thanks list
> David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 05:25:23 -0000
From: "Ryan Schooling" <fallguy_one@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: movie
I hope I'm not starting a rumor flying thread here but here goes. On ebay
someone is selling their D and with it they are selling a whole ton of DMC
memrobillia and one of the items is a t-shirt for the delorean movie Room
501(if memory serves) Whats this all about where can I get a copy?
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN