[DMCForum] Re: Torsion bar adjustment
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[DMCForum] Re: Torsion bar adjustment



The lift struts don't need to be removed, but you do need to prop the
door.

You only need to remove the strut if you want to do the dumb 2-3 inch
hang test. (useles)You just adjust the doors till they are how you
like them.

That way you can make adjustments, and then see the results quickly,
then decide if you want to go another spline, or back off one.

Speaking from 36 doors me & Shannon have adjusted.


-Joe



\





--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Thanks Greg.
>
> Do the lift struts need to be removed?
>
> -Ryan
>
> On 10/11/05, timnagin <timnagin@xxxx> wrote:
> > Ryan,
> >
> > It's not hard to do at all.  I have the plans somewhere to build
the jig but
> > can't find them right now.
> >
> > I bought an extendible door prop from Northern Tools.  If the
following link
> > doesn't work then search on "cargo bar."
> >
> >
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?
storeId
> > =6970&productId=12114&R=12114
> >
> > The bar needs to be placed between the door and the sill plate,
not the
> > ground.  This is easier to do with the louvers and engine cover
off of the
> > car.  I used a breaker bar and two extensions, which I think are
about two
> > feet long each.
> >
> > Two guys can do it but three would be better.  Check the grooved
end of your
> > torsion bar to make sure it isn't mushroomed out.
> >
> > Wait, grooved?  Mushroom?  This ain't no 70's party! ;)
> >
> > This wasn't very hard for us to do and I have done this a few
times.  Before
> > you do anything, use a Sharpie to draw a line across the end of
the torsion
> > bar and plate so you have a beginning reference point.
> >
> > I hope that made sense, kinda tired here.
> >
> > Greg
> >
>






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