[DMCForum] Re: Those darn y-pipe o-rings

["cartermartin" <cartermartin@xxxxxxxxx>]

Robert,

Thanks for the info. 

I got o-rings from a local parts house but they had a little dimple 
in them So I got new ones from Volvo. It looks like one side might be 
somewhat flattend on them. In any event they have a white ring on 
that side.

I like the idea of getting everything tightend and aligned then 
attaching the heater pipe. I had found that someone removed the 
heater pipe from its mount there and bent the tab back. 

I'll also do a pressure test before reassembling next time. You know 
my system is pressurized at 21psi, hmmmm....

How do I like the 760? It's been a wonderful car. I bought it 15 
years ago from a friend who bought it new. I have over 252k miles on 
it and never a problem with the engine or transmission. Water pumps 
every 60k miles though. The 760 is a big heavy car and the PRV is a 
good match. It has the Bosch LH FI which has been flawless. Beware 
the 'bio-degradable' wiring on models '87 and ealier ( mine is an 
87). If you are comfortable withe the PRV you could probably find a 
decent 780 with a bad engine. A friend here in town has one. But this 
is a DMC forum so...

Anyway thanks for the great advice. 

Carter 

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> 
wrote:
> 
> I had a leak in the exact same place on my PRV. I used the O-Rings 
> from John Hervey's kit, and it worked just fine for me. They're 
nice 
> and thick.
> 
> To torque everything down, I first chased the threads with a tap, 
and 
> installed new bolts, just in case the old ones were streched out.
> 
> When I torqued everything down, I held the Y-pipe in place with one 
> hand to keep it flush, as I hand tighened down the bolts, and then 
> backed the one bolt out, so I could install the heater pipe. I then 
> slowly torqued everything by hand, using a star pattern on the 4 
> bolts. And THEN I installed the water pump with new silicone hoses.
> 
> Pressure tested @ 14psi for 20 minutes, and nothing leaked then, 
nor 
> since.
> 
> How do you like the 760? I know the motors, but nothing about the 
> trans, or even the overall feel of the cars. One day when I get a 
> house, and some garage space to store my future toys, I'd like to 
> pick up a Volvo Bertone coupé.
> 
> -Robert
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cartermartin" <cartermartin@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > Hi,
> > 
> > I'm new here and although i do not have a DeLorean, I do have a 
> Volvo 
> > 760 with the B280F engine. 
> > 
> > I am hoping to find the solution to a coolant related problem I 
am 
> > having. This is with the y-pipe that runs from the water pump to 
> the 
> > back of the engine block. Connected to the waterpump by the 
rubber 
> > hose (short in length, large in diameter) and to the block with a 
> > flange sealed (or was once sealed) with o-rings.
> > 
> > My problem is that one of these failed was 'repaired', however it 
> > still seeps a small amount of coolant, typically after the engine 
> is 
> > cold but when there is still pressure in the system. I replaced 
> these 
> > o-rings (again) and used a modest amount of gasket sealer 
torqueing 
> > the bolts to 15ft-lbs (11n-m). 
> > 
> > I found my way here from an earlier post, "That darn water return 
> > pipe" from last year. Some of the gallery photos showing coolant 
> > inbetween the heads has been most helpful and very familiar.
> > 
> > My temptation is to crank these bolts down a bit more but don't 
> want 
> > to risk stripping the threads. Then i would have real problems. 
> > 
> > Does anyone have an idea as to what torque should be used for 
these 
> > bolts? Or have anyother ideas for sealing this thing up?
> > 
> > Many thanks in advance and sorry for the longish post.
> > 
> > Carter

---

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