RE: [DMCForum] Re: CPR education for McCoy (Was: Problems starting)
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 06:35:07 -0600
Ryan,
As Rich talked about the WUR, another thing I have seen with other cars is
the warm up time of the WUR vs.. the ambient temperature. Also, I have
noticed that Bosch started using 10 ohm resistors in some of the WUR and
moved to as high as 25 to 35 ohms in latter applications. The different
resistance would speed up or slow down the conversion from warm up regulator
to control pressure regulator. A good experiment would be to take a few 5
ohm 5 to 10 watt resistors and experiment with the input resistance and see
what happens. Also, It's hard to really know what going on with out testing
with the CIS tester. I do have the one to loan out with a deposit.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: ryanpwright [mailto:yahoo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 11:40 AM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DMCForum] Re: CPR education for McCoy (Was: Problems starting)
Hey Rich,
I can't help but wonder if this could be contributing to my "glug
glug" noise (thread posted on the DML). The problem is the car does a
"glug glug glug" on deceleration. Here's the catch: It doesn't do it
when the car is first started cold. I get about 60 seconds of driving
before it starts happening.
I noticed another issue just the other day as well - The car seems to
have much more power when it's cold. Once the glug glug starts,
acceleration is noticably decreased.
I do NOT have the typical CPR problems. The car starts cold on the
first try every time and idle doesn't seem rough to me. The engine
does not cough and sputter on acceleration when cold. In fact it runs
almost perfectly when cold, the problem starts once it's warm.
(actually, I hesitate to say that - the problem starts within a minute
or so of starting a really cold engine - long before the engine is
what I'd consider to be "warm").
Is the CPR a possible culprit here? How do I test the thing?
-Ryan
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> The "CPR" or control pressure regulator provides a constant pressure
> against the metering plunger in the fuel distributor.
>
> As you know, the air/flow meter is like a see-saw. When you push on
> the pedal, the throttle plates open, vacuum(air flow) sucks the big
> disc down and pushes metering plunger up. The CPR provides a counter-
> force pushing the plunger down.
>
> The big deal with the CPR is that it has a "warm up" cycle. Inside
> the thing is a heater element. When the engine is cold, the diaphram
> is in a different position, providing less counter-force, allowing
> the plunger to move up more easily, giving the cylinders more fuel.
> After a couple of minutes the heater in the CPR causes the diaphram
> to change, increasing the counter-force against the disc, cutting
> the fuel to the proper amount for a warm engine.
>
> There's a little more to it than that, but I'm just giving you the
> basics.
>
> Troubleshooting:
>
> If the CPR is clogged or the element is ruined your control pressure
> could be higher or lower than it's supposed to be during normal
> operating conditions causing hard-starting, poor fuel economy, loss
> of power, etc.
>
> I've no idea of the history of your car so I can't say if the whole
> fuel system is shot and needs overhauled or what. Your best
> investment would be an $80.00 Bosch K-Jetronic fuel pressure test
> kit from JC Whitney. Properly used, this can save you hundreds of
> dollars in unnecessary parts purchases from guessing.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "thomaspaulmccoy"
> <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> > Walt I think you might be on to something. I couldn't figure out
> > why the CPR would cause my problem. Maybe I need a better
> education
> > on what a CPR does. I thought it was a fuel capactor, keeping
> fuel
> > pressure constant.
> >
> > > You need to better define what you mean by "a while".
> >
> > That is technical lingo fo' "I haven't had time to scientifically
> > study it". It seems as though trying to restart it anywhere from
> 20
> > minutes to 1.5 hours later is futile. During this period of time
> > the only solution is pushing the car then popping it in gear.
> >
> >
> > TM (recluse VIN 6921)
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