[DMCForum] Re: Radiator replacement?

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Wasn't mine -- was a fellow owner's. Had no choice if he was going to
join the caravan home. Can't remember how long it took, but definitely
less than 5 hours (of course there were 2 of us working). Sway bar
isn't an issue if you leave the fans in the car. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
> First: I want to thank everyone for the advice on replacing my
> radiator. I have the new one in and everything is great.
> 
> Second: Bill, you replaced one of these in an IHOP parking lot?! I tip
> my hat to your manly achievement. I can't imagine doing this without a
> nice dry garage, plenty of light & tools, music and most of all, a
> case of soap and a shower with unlimited hot water.
> 
> I'm not a bad mechanic, but this was one of the least enjoyable 5
> hours of my life. Actually, it was hell. Not as bad as replacing the
> engine in my Fiero, mind you, but hell all the same. I have grime in
> places I never knew existed. 
> 
> Although, I can answer Walt's question now:
> 
> > Can anyone say if there is
> > enough room to only need to take the sway bar loose from the
> > crumple tube?
> 
> Yep, there's enough room. I loosened mine, let it drop down a few
> inches and was able to get the new radiator up in there. Also, I
> didn't have to modify my fan shroud. Everything fit just fine. Don't
> know if my radiator is a better fit than yours or not. I bought it
> from DPNW.
> 
> -Ryan
> 
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > When I replaced my radiator, I was redoing the a/c, so I
> > took the condenser out with it.  I ended up taking the sway
> > bar completely off to have room.  Can anyone say if there is
> > enough room to only need to take the sway bar loose from the
> > crumple tube?  If you remove the sway bar completely, you
> > may need to replace some bushings.  The fasteners are all
> > supposed to be torqued to spec with thread-locker.  Get
> > ready to find that the previous bozo cross-threaded the
> > fasteners holding the sway bar brackets.  It's a good idea
> > to presoak all the fasteners with penetrating oil.  The
> > shroud is held in a few places with Rivnuts which can strip.
> > 
> > The new brass radiator is a bit thicker which causes a
> > clearance issue with the fan shroud.  I had to cut deeper
> > notches in the shroud to fit the ends of the crumple tube.
> > The thicker radiator put the fans so far back that the
> > blades were hitting the ends of the crumple tubes.  I fixed
> > this by mounting the fans with longer bolts & stacks of
> > washers.  It's not the neatest job, but it works.  I intend
> > to replace those power hungry old clunker fans with modern
> > flat ones soon.  The rusty brackets that go from the top of
> > the radiator to the crumple tube will need to be reshaped to
> > accommodate the thicker radiator.
> > 
> > So did you have the privilege of experiencing the wonder
> > taste of antifreeze?  Yum!  I think they should make it a
> > Gator-Aid flavor.  DPNW (Toby) also sells an extra radiator
> > bleeder for the top line.  I bought one at Pigeon Forge, but
> > haven't used it yet.
> > 
> > Be sure to use the old green variety of antifreeze.  The new
> > orange stuff is not compatible with lead based solder used
> > in brass radiators & heater cores.
> > 
> > Walt

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