Re: [DMCForum] torsion bar... yes, its De Lorean related!

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>]

Key stock?  Just take a file to the one you use on your oil
plug.  ;-)

But seriously... it's a 3/8" hex bit.  It would be best to
use one that takes a 1/2" square drive, but the best I have
found so far (and what I use) is a 3/8" square drive.  I
adapt this to a 1/2" square drive on a breaker bar.  Then I
use a floor jack handle (5' metal pipe) to fit over the
breaker bar as a lever for the person holding the tension.

A few suggestions: messing with the torsion bar is a minimum
two person job.  Make sure you have the hex-key inserted all
the way into the torsion bar.  Make sure the torsion bar is
slid all the way forward into the hinge.  Have some little
pry bars & extra wrenches & bolts ready because the
retaining plate may not come off without a fight.  If you
drop or screw up something, you may not be able to drop what
you're doing to fix it.  Don't let the louver hinge rest
against the rear window.  It touches right on the edge and
can break it.  Torsion bar retaining plates are also good
for breaking rear windows.  When you remove/install a bolt
for the retaining plates, make sure you can spin it by hand.
Otherwise it is binding, and this will tear up the threads.

When you are done, if the torsion bar is rubbing on the rear
hinge then do something to fix it such as put a washer under
one side of the retaining plate (which will flex the bar
slightly away from the hinge).  Or at least stick a piece of
plastic or whatever over the bar to protect it.

Don't even try a torsion bar adjustment if the sub panel has
come unglued from the fiberglass (as is the case with most
cars).  That needs to be pushed back down and reattached
first.

Walt

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