[DMCForum] Re: The Village Idiot Returns -- Tank Mod Suggestions Welcome

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hey Andrei,

Good to hear from you after all this time. I saw your work and 
thought it was good. Bill could do worse than to get ideas from you.

He told me about his engine self-destruction. It's a sad thing. Just 
when he had it running well too.

Rich A.

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrei Cular <andreic@xxxx> wrote:
> Bill
> 
> First off the pump you need to run is made by Facit, and is 
marketed 
> under under the Facit name, NAPA, and Fram.  It is the most common 
> replacement pump used on aircooled VW.  It is solid state in the 
sense 
> that it has no brushes, has a built in regulator, and should run 
about 
> $12 at any parts store.
> 
> I'll send you some pictures off the list thursday eve of how I have 
my 
> tank blocked off.  I really don't want to get lectured again about 
fuel 
> safety...
> 
> 
> Andrei
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> >To put the ending first: I am soliciting suggestions for securing a
> >plate to my former fuel pump opening. I envision a large circular 
disc
> >with a 1/4" tube stuck straight down into my Hervey baffle (filter
> >screen attached). I just need to hold it in place, and keep crap 
out
> >of my tank. Cutting the lip off an old baffle might be easiest...
> >
> >The story: While road testing my clutch installation, engine 
suddenly
> >developed what could charitably be described as an "oil leak". 
Belts
> >were slinging it absolutely everywhere. Entire engine compartment 
was
> >coated. Dripped from the timing chain cover like the DeLorean 
Valdez
> >(didn't leave oil spots on the pavement -- left amazingly large
> >puddles). My brand new dual exhaust is black from barbequed oil. 
Has
> >even been slung out the louver vents all over the exterior (bet I'm
> >made friends at the stop light left & right).
> >
> >Checked timing cover bolts -- all were tight. Reseated the lower 8 
in
> >silicone with oversize washers to no effect.
> >
> >Replaced front oil seal (one advantage of not having a muffler 
across
> >the back of your car) to no effect.
> >
> >Flooded the "valley of death" as an experiment. Sure enough, water 
ran
> >into crank case and foamed my oil.
> >
> >My current block has a hole in it a'la Dave Swingle (who theorizes
> >this will become an ever increasing problem among PRV's that have
> >spent majority of their life sitting outdoors).
> >
> >Since I have a brand spanking new PRV sitting in one corner of the
> >diesel shop, obvious solution is an engine swap on the eve of 
Pigeon
> >Forge...
> >
> >Is carbureted A series, so I need 4-6 PSI fuel pressure. Wanted to 
go
> >mechanical, but I can't find a pump to fit my block (has a circular
> >opening to the camshaft, not oblong). Volvo used dual electric 
pumps
> >even in the early 1970's, not mechanical. A regulator for my 
current
> >CI pump would cost more than a rail mounted low PSI model. So too
> >would a low PSI pump in the existing boot. I'm looking at generic
> >industrial pumps, mounted to flat surface, $50 or so.
> >
> >As stated, a tube will run straight down into the tank, attached 
to a
> >new low pressure line to the rear of the car. Will probably put the
> >pump back there simply because there's more mounting options.
> >
> >Any suggestions to secure my plate to the tank?
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >  
> >

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