a replacement distributor new is over $300 I recall. One of my counterweights has a broken spring. That was a fun one to find. Unfortunately, they don't sell *just* the spring, OF COURSE NOT!! Against my better judgement, it got a replacement spring from Ace. Ah, I wonder what happened to that distributor? Jim On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 17:11:05 -0000 "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> writes: > Letter "U" is on top row... > > 1) Test voltage to coil with voltmeter, not ice pick light. You're > going to need at least 8 volts for ignition to fire. > 2) Test for oscillating voltage on negative side of coil as ignition > module opens & closes > 3) Do spark plug test with distributor lead wire instead of spark > plug > wire > 4) Look for voltage (5v?) on trigger wire as magnetic ring inside > distributor turns > > *IF* my engine representative: trigger wire is thin gauge and > unprotected in engine compartment (other than standard insulation). > Mine slightly melted where it lays across edge of valve cover. > Ensure > not pulled loose from distributor -- I believe that's pickup itself, > not a strain relief. Check connector where it passes through > firewall > (also where shielding starts). > > Is a brand new Volvo B28 distributor (with rotor but no cap) on eBay > right now for $50. Seller has high positive feedback. > > Is also a complete B28 engine in Fairfax... > > Bill Robertson > #5939 > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > I can't catch a fscking break. > > > > As I was driving home from DC yesterday, I decided I wouldn't > -quite- > > have enough fuel to make it home. I was very close to my wife's > > office so I pulled in next to her. I grabbed my gas can, and used > her > > car to find a station to fill the can. I drove back, put the gas > in > > my tank and tried to start the car. > > > > The engine cranked but didn't even try to catch. I knew almost > > immediately why. I put my test spark plug in a wire and I had NO > > spark. None. Zero. > > > > I have: > > Checked #1 fuse. Good. (replaced it anyway, no change) > > Checked RPM relay. > > Bypassed RPM relay anyway. > > Bypassed ballast resistor. No spark. > > Verified voltage to the coil IS present. > > Verified main coil wire is tight on distributor and coil. > > Cap, rotor, plugs, and coil are all brand-new. > > > > I suspect the pick up coil is bad or the ignition ECU is bad. Why? > > > > Because: > > > > 1. Voltage is present to the coil. > > 2. The RPM relay functions and it takes pulses from the coil to > make > > the relay function. The pulses ride the white/slate wire. If the > coil > > wasn't firing, the relay wouldn't close. This means spark is going > to > > the distributor and is NOT coming out on the cylinder plug wires. > > > > Any other theories, tests or confirmations are welcome. I'm in a > real > > bind here folks. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Rich > > #5335 D.I.W. > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying or selling a car. FREE Quotes, 360° Tours, Research, Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/HliolB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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