RE: [DMCForum] Broken bolt

["Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>]

Another trick to collect metal shavings is to coat the drill bit with some
heavy grease.

Scott MUELLER

-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 2:20 PM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Broken bolt


To all that helped me with my broken bolts i have removed them with no
problem. I soaked them with dura-lube spray for 3 days, then drilled a
hole in them and used a easy out and they came out with no effort at all
like they were loose to begin with.

Here is a good tip... use a magnet to pick up all of the drill shavings
before you use your hands to pick up the debris in the valleys under the
intake, this will keep you from getting metal slivers (dont ask how i
know this).

I would have never removed the water pipe under the intake manifold but
both sides of the pipe were leaking other wise i would have left it
alone. So leave the pipe under the manifold alone if its not leaking and
if it is leaking hope you dont break the bolts or if you do hope they
come out as easy as mine did.

Funny thing is that all of the water pump bolts came out easy with no
problems.

Thank you to everyone that helped me.

Mark


Walter Coe wrote:

>  > What is the best way to get a broken bolt out of the block. Two of
> my
> > water pipe under the manifold bolts broke off flush and nothing to
> grab.
>
> Well at least you don't have to pull the engine out to get to it.  The
> basic
> technique is to drill out what is left of the broken bolt while not
> drilling
> into the block either through the side or the bottom.  Start with a
> small
> size drill bit and keep it centered as best as you can.  It doesn't
> hurt to
> hold the drill at an angle to keep it from drifting it off center.
> Before
> you start drilling, you might try putting a dent in the bolt using a
> punch &
> hammer.
>
> Once you have a pilot hole, the next step is to keep drilling the hole
> big
> enough to fit an Easy-Out.  I affectionately refer to them as
> "hard-outs"
> because they are seldom easy.  There are two styles -- tapered with
> reverse
> thread or straight with longitudinal ribs.  I don't have a preference
> because they all suck.  Try to use the biggest hard-out that will fit
> because if it breaks then you really have a mess on your hands.
>
> The first thing to do is start soaking it all in PB Blaster or Liquid
> Wrench.  WD-40 works well to keep the drill bits cool.  You know to
> squirt
> some more on it when you see it smoke.  WD-40 is great for drilling
> but not
> so good for disolving rust.  For that I prefer PB Blaster.  If you
> fuck up
> the threads, you can always fix it with a threaded insert.  When you
> put it
> all back together, use anti-seize grease so it doesn't snap off again
> the
> next time.
>
> Walt


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