The problem with the OEM switch is exactly what you state - the bottom falls out AND THE LIGHT STAYS ON. THAT is when they melt - when the light stays on with the lid down and the engine running. John's switch IS cheap (or perhaps inexpensive is a better word), but it's not rocket science and works perfectly. I've used one out of my remote starter kit that I didn't use as part of thie kit. If John's switch were to fail, the light goes out, but it WON'T fail leaving it on like the OEM one. Martin Walter Coe wrote: >My first thought: "Do you really want that switch to work?" My car came >from its previous owner with the switch disconnected and for good reason. >The engine compartment lights on these cars cannot deal well with the heat >that they generate. First the lens starts to melt, and with continued use >then the socket melts and shorts out. Their choice of location for that >light isn't so great either. It's perfectly located to shine in my eyes >while I'm trying to work. > >Okay, about getting the switch to work: It's the same part used for the >glove compartment light. But it's not the best design to survive in an >engine compartment. I've seen John Hervey make a GM door switch work. He >sells such a kit on his web site. It looks like crap and has the switch >contacts even more exposed than the original but it works and may be more >durable. My second choice would be to use a proximity $ensor. My first >choice would be to use a flashlight. ;-) > >Walt > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> FREE Cell Phones with up to $400 Cash Back! http://us.click.yahoo.com/_bBUKB/vYxFAA/i5gGAA/HliolB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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