Re: [doc] Idle Speed ECU Reair
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Re: [doc] Idle Speed ECU Reair
- From: Nick Tomlinson <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx>
- Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 09:16:41 +0100 (BST)
To John, 800rpm sounds good enough for me. I checked the ecu with additional loadings like the air-con, all lights, rear screen heater etc and it still gave a steady reading on my car. I'd have to look into why these units blow, probably because of the many jump starts these cars have...
Cheque is fine, I haven't cashed it yet until you received the ecu back.
Glad you are happy with it. I used duck tape underneath as a non-permanent fixture so you can change the chips yourself if required. I left the old ones in to cross reference. You can buy these off the shelf from places like Maplins.
Nick.
jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:To Nick
Many thanks, I have received the repaired module today. Now that it's
fitted the signs look good. I arrived home late so it is too dark for
a run out (rear lights dim, possible bad earth I am told) but the
cold idle speed oscillates at around 800rpm which is a vast
improvement.
Was the cheque enough?
John
--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
>
> To John, I've fixed your ecu and I'll post it to you today. I tried
it first and it started OK (1500rpm slowly dropping to 700rpm) then
the idle speed jumped around a bit a few times randomly. To make sure
it wasn't my engine being temperamental I plugged my ecu in and it
was OK. I suspect it is the voltage comparator being dicky (LM2901N)
but as I had to break into the box I replaced all of the chips anyway
(but added sockets so you can change them if required using a
screwdriver). Double check your idle speed control valve by removing
it from the car. You should have 200 ohms between the centre pin and
the outer pins. Briefly (less than a second) connect +12v to the
centre pin and 0v to one of the outer pins. This should either
completely open the valve or completely close it. Do you have a copy
of the Delorean Workshop manual? Let me know how you get on.
>
> Regards, Nick.
>
> jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:Nick.
>
> Thanks for letting me know, I had not expected such a fast
turnaround
> but if you do manage it this quickly so much the better!
>
> John.
>
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
> <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> > To John, just to let you know I have received your ECU and the
new
> chips from Farnell (I've bought enough to repair 4 ECU's). I'll try
> and get it repaired tonight or tomorrow and send it to you for
> saturdays post.
> > Nick.
> > jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:To Nick
> >
> > I have sent you the ECU today, it is guaranteed to arrive on
> Friday.
> > I am happy with your terms, it will be worth it just to prove if
> the
> > ECU is at fault!
> >
> > I will wait until the car is 'whole' again and then start on the
> > battery probs.
> >
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > John Chapelhow
> >
> >
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
> > <nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
> > >
> > > To John, no problem. Check everything that I said in an earlier
> > post eg checking cabling voltages resistance at the ECU plugs
first
> > as my repair will not result in a working car otherwise.
> > > Send the ECU to my works address (someone is always here to
> collect
> > post). I'll send you an e-mail once I have received the parcel:
> > > FAO Nick Tomlinson;
> > > Aston Dane Plc
> > > Park Mill Way
> > > Clayton West
> > > Huddersfield
> > > HD8 9XJ
> > > My no. is 07736610787.
> > > Cost of components is approx £5 and time to repair is about 2-3
> > hours (inc testing). I'd test your ECU on my car first, if it
works
> > then there is something else wrong.
> > > Just send me a cheque for cost of parts plus return postage and
> > send me 2 tins of the clubs Stainless steel cleaner (or its money
> > equivalent). Its top stuff.
> > > If I am not going on site this week then you may get it back
for
> > the end of this week.
> > > Best way to test drain from battery is to disconnect the earth
> > cable from the battery and connect an ammeter between the Earth
> cable
> > and the battery post and note the current drain. Disconnect each
> fuse
> > from the fusebox in turn to isolate which circuit causes the
drain.
> > If you find the drain then check the components on that circuit.
If
> > it turns out to be the charging circuit then disconnect the leads
> > from the alternator as you may have a 'leaky' diode in the
> rectifier
> > that causes drain down. The safety lights on the doors may still
be
> > on when the doors are closed. You can disable these by
> disconnecting
> > them from the switches near the doors on the main car body just
> > underneath the dash.
> > > Hope this helps.
> > > Nick.
> > > jchapelhow <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:Nick
> > >
> > > My garage have tried most of the 'quick fixes' for my idle
> > problems,
> > > it looks like the ECU is to blame.
> > >
> > > I would like to take you up on your offer of repair services,
if
> > you
> > > could e-mail me off-list with your address and a price for the
> > > component/delivery I will send you a cheque for the bits. If
you
> > > could also advise on your charge for the repair and timescales
> that
> > > would be great.
> > >
> > > As an aside could it be that this circuit is also responsible
for
> > the
> > > car's battery drain?
> > >
> > >
> > > John Chapelhow
> > >
> > > DOC 19 : 'Boeing' #0737
> > >
> > >
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