Re: [doc] FW: [DML] Door lock module & Fire

[Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>]

When I doctor a lock module, I replace the main capacitors which can 
cause a current drain. I also replace the transistors because they're 
underrated for the job and can fail. I replace the relays with sealed 
Siemens units from Maplin (£1.49), and add protection diodes to protect 
the transistors from voltage transients.

The circuit itself is flawed, but by using robust enough components can 
be make reliable. You should not leave a stock module plugged in.

I did my module nearly a year ago, and have fitted remote sentral 
locking which wires into it. It's still going strong.

I can do your module if you like, but it's a tedious job and it can take 
me months to get around to it (right now I need a stock of capacitors)

Martin

Chris Parnham wrote:

> Martin,
>
> Is this correct? Should we D owners be doing something?
>
> Chris P
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elvis Nocita [mailto:elvisnocita@xxxx]
> Sent: 23 September 2002 21:08
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: AW: [DML] Door lock module & Fire
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> you're right, I repaired about 10 Door lock modules and each of them had
> worn and burned relay contacts. And the relays are also the reason why the
> selenoids burn and therfore the power door lock system fails.
> If you wanna do something good for your car and its battery, simply replace
> 4 parts of the module and the current consumption during standby is lowered
> about more than 90% !!!! During stanby the module draws 13mA just to check
> the switch inside the door if the selenoids shall be activated or not. New
> sytems in cars are developed to draw less than some few micro amps during
> standby, that's about 1/1000 what that door lock module draws !
> Anyone who knows a little about electronics can do this modification which
> is invisible from outside. Send me an email if you're interested, I will get
> you the plans in a (not only by me) readable version. The parts cost less
> than one dollar and it takes 15 minutes with getting the beer from the
> fridge to replace everything.
> I also developed a simple solution to protect the selenoids from burning
> when the relay contacts stick together. After 5 seconds this little tiny
> item reduces the current from about 10Amps to some hundred mA ! You will
> only recognize that the relais stick when youre doors don't lock anymore.
> But then your selenoid still are ok, while without that part you will have
> to replace the windings inside the selenoids. By the way, a boring job.
>
>
> Drop me a line if interested
>
> Elvis & 6548