Re: [doc] How PSO is going at present....
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Re: [doc] How PSO is going at present....
- From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
- Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:56:36 +0000
Stephen Strelczak wrote:
PSO now has her new gas strutts fitted, which work like a treat, they
take the doors up to full hieght, swiftly and smoothly, no need to
torsion bar antics thank god:) New stainless steel coolant bottle,
throttle cover both fitted, and engine bay starting to look tidy at
last. Martin, what was the name of that black polish you were using on
the black plastic parts of the car? I would like to use it on the
connecting rubber pipes on my engine, and the bay in general.
It's Car Plan Black Trim Wax. You can get it in Halfords. Chris Hawes
discovered it. NB it's NOT a polish. it will give you a matte black
finish. If you need to restore colour, as I did, then it's fantastic,
however the auto-glym stuff James uses is better, this gives it a
permanent "wet" look. It comes as a sort of green gel
Been talking with my mechanic last week, specifically about the ride
hieght of the car. We would like to drop the ride hieght by an inch on
the back, and 2.5 inches on the front. We haven't had much luck on the
springs front, but think we will be able to do the job with a certain
type of clamp device, which compress's the springs down by any
required amount. Does anyone know of this conversion to the springs?
Chris Parnham can get you the front springs for £50. He's working on
getting the rears done too, but 2.5 and 1 inch sound like quite a lot!
DMC Houston do a new pair of rears, but they're pricey. If you just
compress the stock springs, you'll bottom out the suspension, because
with a shorter travel you need stiffer springs to compensate. The stock
springs are too loose as it is! PJ grady also do new shock absorbers for
the car - this would be a better investment IMO, and I did read
somewhere you can adjust the height on them.
Trailing arm bolts, PSO never had the conversion, what does this
involve?
What conversion? You just need to make sure they're kept torqued.
www.delorean-parts.com have the Toby TAB's in stock - who else wants a
set - we could save on shipping. I want a pair, James does too. No doubt
Rich can be bullied into it also :-) They're $66 a pair and that is what
they cost to make (read why on his website).
Another thing, my heating system. We have found the problem, and it
made my mechanic and myself laugh. My fan motor is currently spinning
the wrong way! My mechanic swapped the polarity, and the fan system
improved by over 100%!
I have heard this can happen, though I'd like to find out why. It'd take
something seriously wierd to go wrong in the motor, and I'm not sure how
the earthing works onthe fan motors. NB I think you still have the
fan-fail module in your relay compartment (blue jobby, to the bottom
left as you look over it). You have two fans and both should come on at
the same time. There's no independent wiring in the stock loom for them
to come on independently. The fan-fail module often creates the
situation where you rely on one fan only - mine's doing this but as I
don't have/use the AC, the fans rarely need to work. It SHOULD light up
an indicator on the instrument panel to tell you only one fan's working,
but again, rely on this at your peril! I can easily wire up the mod in
the relay compartment to make your fans work properly.
However, this can not remain, as the car is negative earth, and my car
was then able to give a nice electric shock to anyone touching the
outside at the wrong moment. So big question, and I know you'll like
this one martin, can the motor be rewired, rebuilt, or a device fitted
before it, to change the polarity safely, without electric shocks?
This would help a great deal.
I don't see how reversing the polarity on the motor can cause it to make
the bodywork positive. - it's still connected to the earth of the
battery! Most likely you need a new fan motor. I could have a go at
dismantling it if you like, and while it's out we could try and X-ref
the motor. You can run on one fan.
Courtesy light circuit!!?? I'm stumped on this on. I now have the
circuit diagram for the car on the wall of the garage, at double A0
size (we have a poster printer at work that goes to A0 size, quite
handy n'est pas? However, I'm still no closer to finding out how to
get this circuit running. It wasn't the fuse as said before. I would
call Dave, but I don't have 2 hours spare at present:) Whats the best
way of getting this bit started?
Let me have a look at the car :-) Can't really help otherwise! We need
to have another get-together with our cars. Are you coming down next
Sunday (10th) for the Mechanoids filming? I should get a bit of time to
have a look then.
Door modual, when's a good time to send them Martin?
Now. I have to find my solder braid and some fat cable, but I have
arranged everything on my desk to do the work on Dave's and Graham's. I
have six relays so can do 3 modules. I do need some diodes though....
Body work is looking wonderful, but a couple of panels looking a
little dull, best way to clean these up. Any hints on really cleaning
up the steel, without rebrushing, as I don't think that will be
needed. Hints on direction of cleaning, products, tools etc.
White spirit, a rag and elbow grease!
I can't find any hints on the sites for this one. Whats the best way
to bring the car up to its best, without ruining the grain on the
stainless steel?
When cleaning, _always_ rub with the grain
Finally, when can we all meet up again? My car feels
underpowered, like really underpowered, and I'd love to run the car
alongside another to compare, along with elctrical systems ect. Which
show would be the best one to take my Delroean along to, if I want to
sit beside her for the first time, and feel very proud? Lots of
questions I know, but thats what keeps this group nice and active:)
Speak soon,
We're doing another D-Day at the Diesel Centre around the end of
April/start of May, as to actual shows, they're pretty thin on the
ground till the weather improves!
Martin
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