Re: [doc] Door strut pivot failure (a bit long, but worth checking yours
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Re: [doc] Door strut pivot failure (a bit long, but worth checking yours!! )
- From: John Tien <johntien99@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 21:02:04 +0800 (CST)
Is there anything we can do to prevent it from
happening? Is modding it the way Phil did it the
only/best way to go?
Regards,
John Tien
DOC 8
RHD 3046
--- Daniel Shane <dan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> »¡¡G
> Hi Phil,
>
> That was bloody lucky mate. Normally the plate that
> is bolted to the
> fibreglass moves over time and causes the fibreglass
> to break off. We've
> seen that and it's a nightmare to fix.
>
> Glad you got it sorted
>
> Dan
>
>
> On 16/5/06 23:55, "Phill Wright" <psw@xxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
> > Hiya ...
> >
> > well, the generally reliable (disgustingly I'm
> told) 'Sorbet',
> > decided it was time summat broke the other day,
> and tried to eat me
> > in the process :-).
> > While closing the drivers door there was a very
> loud crack and the
> > door collapsed onto me :(
> > Immediate thoughts was torsion bar failure, but
> fortunately it was
> > less serious.
> > What had happened was the lower pivot for the door
> gas strut had
> > sheared off!!
> > I was very lucky that the strut dropped into the
> door channel and
> > not onto the stainless or some serious damage
> could have resulted -
> > it was close judging by the scrape up the rubber
> seal right to the
> > edge of the stainless.
> > Main problem in the repair was the bolt had
> sheared off in the mount
> > attached to the car body, this is fixed to the
> inner skin of the
> > fibreglass tub. It was obvious the broken stud
> wasn't going to be
> > removed in situ, so, the mount had to be removed.
> To get the mount
> > out you need to dremel out the shape of the
> bracket from the outer
> > skin (its hidden under the door seal so can't be
> seen after anyway)
> > and take the mount off the car. This done the
> broken stud was still
> > unremoveable and I opted to grind off the welded
> on fixing nut and
> > fit a new one - this involved turning a shoulder
> on a 10mm nut and
> > brazing it into the plate.
> > The mounting plate is no longer available at
> Houston (though shown
> > as available at just over $3 ).
> > The actual pivots are available at about ¢G5.00 a
> pair! so, perhaps
> > it would be worth investing in a pair to save you
> having the same
> > problem - they are 25yrs old now and take a lot of
> sideways stress.
> > I've taken a few pics of the repair - 3 are linked
> here, note the
> > long temporary bolts - these are used to stop the
> backplate that the
> > two fixing bolts go into from dissappearing in
> between the skins,
> > never to be seen again!
> > Pic of the sheared off pivot ...
> >
> http://www.fab1.net/sorbet/strutfail/broken-stud.jpg
> > Pic of repaired mount plate ...
> >
>
http://www.fab1.net/sorbet/strutfail/repaired-plate.jpg
> > Pic of the door frame with the dremelled out shape
> and plate
> > removed - note the long retaining bolts to allow
> the plate to be
> > slid out the hole while keeping the backplate in
> place! ..
> > http://www.fab1.net/sorbet/strutfail/removed.jpg
> >
> > PhillW
> > DOC233
> > VIN 6772 (de-cat'ed and sounding lovely)
> > AVI and SERA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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