Re: [DML] Driving DMC on salted roads

["cbl302@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <cbl302@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

True enough..but left unwashed..it will be far far worse than water forced into the damaged epoxy areas.. at least it removes the chances of  the corrosive mixture of salt/magnesium chloride mixing into the areas with the cracked epoxy/bare metal..salt/magnesium chloride CLINGS/coats ONTO every metal part of your car..and if left unwashed will only very very rapidly accelerate the corrosive actions of just water or moisture alone..in particular brake lines/metal gas lines..radiators..condensers..electrical components..etc..

My suggestion garage it and buy a cheap winter beater.

Claude
1024
bric

   

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Kemp <nkemp1165@...> wrote:
>
> Washing it under high or even low pressure will force water into the 
> cracks of the epoxy coating.  It will then start or continue the rust 
> process even with out salt.  Salt only makes it more effective.  Water 
> alone will result in frame rust if it can get to the metal.
> 
> NK
> 
> 
> cbl302@... wrote , ----On 12/20/2013 10:03 AM 
> ---------------------------:
> >
> > Lee..The ONLY way to drive in the salt belt states and protect your 
> > Delorean is to Wash the undercarriage either through a car wash that 
> > specializes in washing the whole car plus the undercarriage under high 
> > pressure..and BTW you MUST do this after every drive through harsh 
> > winter weather, when the roads are clear and dry..otherwise as soon as 
> > you hit the streets you are respraying the corrosive salts all over 
> > your undercarriage.
> >
> > Also beware the New stuff that is now used instead of salt/sand 
> > mixture on the winter roads (the Liquid Spray magnesium chloride is 
> > more corrosive to metal under wet conditions.)It will EASILY eat away 
> > at your brake lines/gas lines..and we all know the end results if that 
> > happens.
> >
> > Watch this video and then think twice about driving any good car in 
> > the winter weather...
> >
> > http://www.wfsb.com/story/23874231/mechanics-blame-winter-road-treatment-for-damage-to-cars
> >
> > Here in Connecticut we buy cheap "winter beaters" and let those 
> > vehicles take the punishment of the corrosive winters..
> >
> > Claude
> > 1024
> > Bric
> > and never seen winter weather(or rain)
> > and always garaged and covered
> > in 33yrs of ownership
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <katduck23@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Folks!
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm (very) new to the group, and doing my best to soak up as much 
> > know-how as I can.
> > >
> > >
> > > Would a sacrificial anode help with this situation? I seem to 
> > remember a car-maker using them in the past, but I can't recall which one.
> > >
> > >
> > > 
> > http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Analytical_Chemistry/Electrochemistry/Case_Studies/Corrosion/Sacrificial_Anode 
> > http://chemwiki.ucdavis.edu/Analytical_Chemistry/Electrochemistry/Case_Studies/Corrosion/Sacrificial_Anode
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > If this works as I (in my non-technical level of comprehension) 
> > understand, then the current is carried to the zinc anode, which 
> > proceeds to do the rusting (oxidizing) before the iron would. I 
> > suppose you would need to make sure that all the rust-able pieces have 
> > connectivity. Does someone here have more info on this possibility?
> > >
> > >
> > > I would much rather clip one or two of these somewhere on the 
> > undercarriage and replace them now and then.than confine my (someday) 
> > DMC-12 to the New England driving season.
> > >
> > >
> > > Lee D>
> > >
> > >
> > > VIN #tbd
> > >
> >
> >
>




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