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To be completely accurate there is also a ground wire going to the
tank that connects to a stiff wire inside that drains any static
charge from the fuel. It's connected to the filler. The origional fuel
sender has so many problems that it just isn't worth discussing. If
you still have the OEM sender and it's working that's great but
considering it's high failure rate it's just good practice to upgrade
the damm thing. Unfortunetely there are no more Tankzillas available
and the unit DMCH sells has it's share of complaints. 
 As for the fuel pump what may seem like sucking air from a low fuel
level can also be from a kinked hose, a soft, collapsing hose, or a
hose with a crack or tear in it so that when you get below 1/2 tank
the car doesn't run right. Again, the stock set-up is very touchy. If
you turn the fuel pump as you insert it into the boot that pick-up
hose with all of those bends in it will kink. It is VITAL that the
pick-up hose not have any tendancy to kink. Another point not
previously mentioned is the way the stock set-up minimizes the
transmission of the pump's vibrations to the bottom of the tank. Of
course that assumes it is, again, properly installed.
 As for running the fuel level ALL the way down, it is not the best
idea, if there is any water in the tank it is all the way on the
bottom TOO! My recomendation is once a year, like just before you
store your car for the winter, you completley drain the fuel tank and
wipe it out to remove any water and dirt and to inspect all of the
parts in this extremely important "hidden" area. Most fuel system
problems begin IN THE FUEL TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As for the fuel gauge, I always cross-check it against the trip
odometer. I always reset it to zero when I fill the tank. It keeps
track of my gas mileage and range. BTW I have a spring inside my
pick-up hose to keep it from kinking or collapsing. The tank doesn't
need internal baffling, the fuel baffle and pick-up is designed to
compensate for the fuel moving around inside the tank.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike clemens <rmclemns@...> wrote:
> Group,
> Having watched the thread on John's new pump and the questions that
have been raised, I thought it time to chime in, since I have repaired
3-4 fuel pumps and no less that half a dozen fuel quantity indicators.
> First, there are three (3) separate electrical circuits going to the
fuel  tank.  One circuit is the fuel pump, with a positive and and
negative set of leads.  This is a very simple setup, which I assume
everyone understands.
> Where everyone has problems is understanding the fuel quantity 
transmitter.  There are three wires going to the "screw on cap".  Two
of those wires are positive and one is a common ground for both the
positive wires.  One of the positive wires is connected to the winding
of resistive wire that goes down the center pole in the transmitter. 
This one is connected to the fuel quantity gage on the dash.  The
other positive is connected to the single long wire that runs down the
side from top to bottom inside the transmitter.  This is the circuit
that turns on the low fuel light on the dash.  Both of these circuits
are independent of each other and that is why there are so many
variations with fuel quantity and low fuel light in all the different
Deloreans.  T


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