Re: [DML] Door locks and exterior door handle questions
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Re: [DML] Door locks and exterior door handle questions



Farrar,
 
I would submit that you should align the striker pin correctly, and put it back.  It can take some time and a lot of trial and error, but you really should keep it in there.  If not, the front of the door flexes and shakes over every bump.  You should be able to see this while you are driving.  I would bet this is rather bad on the door seal, and I can't imagine it's good for the door to flop around like that also.
 
If the back one is already perfectly smooth to latch, then you can start messing with the front one again.  Just close the door slowly while you look into the door jam, and you can get a pretty good idea of how to move the striker to get it to work.  On a car as "early" as yours (relatively speaking) you might have to cut the fibreglass to make the adjustment area larger, or move the position of the latch within the door.
 
It will take some time and a few cuss words, but it's satisfying to finally hear that simultaneous, effortless "thud" as you close the door.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063 --> a notoriously bad VIN range for doors, so it *can* be done!


----- Original Message ----
From: Farrar <fhudkins@xxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:49:43 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Door locks and exterior door handle questions

Re #3: I had the same problem with my driver door, even though the 
linkages all looked okay. I simply removed the front Nader bolt, and 
have had no ill effects.

Farrar Hudkins
#2613 (auto)
. 
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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