RE: [DML] Re: May be buying anoter DMC..

["Tom Tait" <TTait@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Well, if there is no electric power its not the issue, but it could be
the solution.  The linkages have some play in them, the bell cranks,
etc.  Unlocking with the key may not put enough pressure on the solenoid
to move it to a fully unlocked position, and it may be the solenoids
that are hanging either or both doors up.

 

I had a similar problem with my new car and I've been working to get the
door linkages all adjusted properly.

 

I'd suggest taking an electric meter and setting it to continuity mode
(often it looks similar to a capital K - it's the setting where the
meter beeps or changes from a 0 to a 1 when you touch red and black
together), and check to make sure the battery in the car isn't a dead
short.  If there is no continuity between ground and the + jump start
post, then you are clear to hook up jumper cables to externally power
the electrical system.  

 

If you do find a short you can try unhooking the cable from the battery
to the frame, or the + side battery cable, isolating the battery in the
car will hopefully solve the short, again clearing you to hook up jumper
cables and try the electrics.

 

I wouldn't leave it powered very long, just long enough to try the key
in both doors and see if the solenoids will kick in to fully unlock
either door.

 

If you see sparks when you hook up the jumper cables - take them off -
otherwise I say there is at least a 50/50 chance this can get you in -
and it would only take 5 minutes to do if it goes well.

 

Tom

 

________________________________

From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Farrar Hudkins
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 11:04 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: May be buying anoter DMC..

 

The door locks work just fine without power. Knowing my module would
fail, I have disconnected it. Your lock buttons have rods on them. The
only thing the lock module does is cause the "other" door to
lock/unlock when you operate one door lock.

I agree with Harold. I think electrical current is not the problem here.

Farrar Hudkins
#2613 (auto)

On Sun, Mar 23, 2008 at 4:48 PM, dmc_5180 <dmc_5180@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:dmc_5180%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Marc,
>
> Does the car have an electrical power? As in, do the solenoids clunk?
>
> If the Battery is dead, I would suggest hooking jumper cables to the
car.
> Since I assume you would not be able to lift the louvre, You would
need
> go under the cars and attach to the positive wires either at the
alternator
> or starter, if your lucky you might even reach the positive jump start
lug.
> Then clamp the ground to the engine some place.
>
> Perhaps powering the system will help trip the solenoids. Of coarse
this
> assumes the door lock module is plugged in and at least one door
handle
> is fully functional.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Marc Levy <malevy_nj@...> wrote:
> >
> > I found a project DMC in the area... But, cant get in
> > to it!!
> >
> > Both door locks move the the key, but neither door
> > opens. The drivers door handle is cracked inside, you
> > can see it when you lift the handle.
> >
> > The passenger side handle looks OK, but the lock does
> > not seem to fully disengage with the key. Lifting the
> > handle has no resistance at all.
> >
> > Any ideas on how to get in to this car without busting
> > the window?! :)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________
> > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs <http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs> 
> >
>
> 

 



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