[DML] Re: Warm Start Issue -- Looking Elsewhere Than Fuel System (David
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[DML] Re: Warm Start Issue -- Looking Elsewhere Than Fuel System (David McKeen)



Your message to John Hervey indicates you do NOT have a resting
pressure problem (it also indicates you have spent a lot of money
chasing what could be a fuel delivery phantom).

See David's Message #74232. He is absolutely correct: Other systems
may be yielding your starting difficulties. Bare minimum I'd stick a
timing light on a spark plug wire of choice (doesn't need to be #1 or
#6) and ensure you're getting spark. You also need a strong spark --
have you checked voltage into the coil, the coil itself, plug and coil
wires, and the plugs? Don't forget to check the distributor cap for
cracks (cracks = water inside the cap, especially during humid or
foggy weather -- so called "English Morning Syndrome"). Moisture is
ignition's #1 enemy. Ever watched an arc'ing plug wire on a freshly
washed engine?

David also mentioned vacuum advance. There's a lively discussion on
the DML right now about DeLorean spark advance. If your distributor is
receiving vacuum while cranking, the engine will be very difficult to
start. That's the whole purpose of the cutoff solenoid.

An old mechanic once told me that 99% of vehicle problems are
electrical. That was before fuel injection, so the percentage may have
changed somewhat, but the principle remains the same. Your whole
problem could be nothing more than a loose Fuse #1.

David mentioned the starter bypass relay -- are you familiar with its
purpose? DeLorean ignition runs a surprising amount of resistance in
the coil circuit (almost as much as a points based system). I think
that hurts overall performance, but that's another argument for
another thread. Anyway, to improve starting performance, they
installed a relay that bypasses one of the resistors during the
cranking cycle, thus yielding a stronger spark (which I think should
be there all the time, but that's another argument for another
thread). This resistor, and its socket, are exposed to the weather.
Doesn't take much rust to interrupt proper operation. My socket is
rusty as hell, but that doesn't matter because I don't use it (I've
bypassed one of the resistors permanently, thus yielding a stronger
spark whether cranking or not, but that's another argument for another
thread). 

I'd give your fuel system a rest and start looking for the problem
elsewhere.

BTW: While you're in conversation with John, ask him about his MSD
plug wires and a Pertronix or MSD coil. You could do far worse than
spending a surprisingly small amount of money on high voltage
ignition. Remember that higher voltage ignition gives you the ability
to open the plug gap up, which certainly yields a longer spark
irrespective of whether that gap also increases its intensity (an
ongoing argument for another thread).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "bitsyncmater" <david.mckeen@...> wrote:
>
> So should my engine have cooled in the 90 degree summer heat after 3
> hours?  If not than the cold start injector has nothing to do with
> starting it then.  How long does it take for the engine to cool for
> the thermal switch to switch on?




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