[DML] Re: startup video

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It isn't all that hard to get the motor to run right. All it takes it
to have ALL of the systems working correctly! All of the cylinders
have to be balanced within 5% of each other, all of the injectors must
be clean and matched, NO AIR LEAKS, good ignition wires, and all
adjustments made correctly. Even then the motor WILL hunt. The hunting
will vary during the warm-up cycle from no hunting to some hunting.
Once the motor is warmed up some hunting is normal. If parts don't
work it is no reason to disconnect a whole system. If one part doesn't
work it is easier to replace it then to try to monkey around it. After
25 years you can expect to have to replace some parts! I have worked
on many cars that didn't idle right. It takes a lot of persistance and
digging to undo all of the little things that have been done wrong by
previous owners and their "mechanics". Once the motor is properly set
up it will run well for a long time with no "adjustments", hot or
cold. It should start quickly, settle done in less than a minute, and
be drivable right away with no hesitation or stumble. Among the things
 that HAVE to be right are:
advance, vacuum and mechanical, and initial timing
Lambda
cylinder compression within 5%
all spark plugs gapped as evenly as possible
cold start valve
warm-up regulator
idle motor
hidden vacuum leaks (idle motor tube "O" ring for instance)
throttle stop and idle switch settings
mixture screw and plug
All of these systems are in the Workshop Manual. We don't need another
website for them. You must be through and careful to get everything
"just right". It can take removing the intake manifold to find the
broken bolt, the missing or out-of-place gasket or "O" ring, etc. All
of this takes a lot of time. Something most customers don't want to
pay for if a mechanic or Delorean vendor has to fix it. That's why you
see so many cars that don't run "right". If you can do it yourself you
CAN make it "right".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
 



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@...> wrote:
>
> In theory, frequency valves don't fluctuate until water temp is up. In
> practice, they seem to monkey with the lower chambers anyway. Numerous
> times I've unplugged the frequency valve on a cold engine and had that
> characteristic idle hunt smooth out. Don't know what fails between
> theory and practice, but something obviously does.
> 
> Regarding CIS -- you're at the mercy of the idle speed motor & control
> module. Mine stuck closed at a stoplight once. Had to ride the
> accelerator pedal to crack the throttle plates until I could get home
> and throw the stupid thing away. 'Twas then that I figured out what
> the balance screws were for and how to set them.
> 
>



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