[DML] thanks, Bill -5470
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[DML] thanks, Bill -5470

Bill, that was sure nice of you to write all the for me.  my car has trouble starting hot and cold...kind of annoying...Danny from DMC in Garden Grove offered me to call him and he said he'll go over what I need bc he heard me having trouble when i left his place on wed.  So I guess need a couple things...I changed the oil, okay.  At least I can do that!  Many thanks, and Ill go back and reread your email again, but there is alot i didnt understand since all I am familar with is old air cooled volkswagens!  thanks again, Tony

content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:  First & foremost: Congrats on your new purchase. DeLorean ownership is
one of the sweeter experiences of life. It is *NOT* trouble free, but
it could be far worse (you could have purchased a product built by
General Motors). As you go through the teething tribulations endemic
to all 25 year old used cars, do not lose faith or hope. Once the
vehicle is brought back to operating condition you will find it very
reliable thereafter. Sounds like you're not there yet... (but it's on
the horizon -- keep your eyes on the prize).

Second and foremost: Are you going to be doing your own work, or will
you be farming it out to a third party mechanic? If the latter, be
prepared for some turn downs. Most mechanics have more than enough
business with cars they are not afraid of. The DeLorean is actually
quite conventional, but it is not popularly perceived that way. It
also is not OBD II compliant. A diagnostic computer or other code
reader won't help a mechanic unable to diagnose with other
instruments. A repair facility familiar with Bosch K-Jetronic fuel
injection is your best third party option. The stock DeLorean engine
is virtually identical to the V-6's Volvo was importing in the late
70's to mid 80's (*NOT* the B230 inline six -- don't assume that every
Volvo mechanic will be familiar with it).

If you're doing your own work, the List is a very useful resource.
Just remember that not all posters share the same ideas or
perspectives -- you may get conflicting responses. DeLo parts vendors
are another valuable source of information (be sure to buy something
while you have them on the phone). Fellow owners in person *CAN*
provide good assistance -- just don't do anything that may permanently
damage the vehicle if neither of you is sure.

Whoever's doing the work, buy yourself a DeLorean Workshop Manual
(every parts vendor sells reprints). The Workshop Manual isn't perfect
(I've augmented mine with Volvo and Renault literature), but it is
pretty much invaluable.

Regarding your starting conditions: The PRV as installed in DeLoreans
has two different starting modes -- cold and warm.

Cold, the following happen:
- A "cold start" injector sprays additional fuel into the intake (for
a while -- non-stop cranking will deactivate it)
- The Control Pressure Regulator enrichens fuel mixture overall
- The "Lambda" frequency valve (an emissions control device) is
- The idle speed motor opens further
- Vacuum spark advance is deactivated

Warm, none of the above happen. In theory conditions are right for
"instant" restarting. A device called an accumulator is necessary to
hold fuel pressure for such. They do go bad, the easiest temporary
solution of which is to force the cold start injector to spray (simply
swap its inactive when warm harness plug with the always active
Control Pressure Regulator plug).

Pumping the accelerator pedal has absolutely no effect on anything
(fuel injection has no accelerator pump). You can open the throttle
plates to let more air into the engine, but the metering plate
activated by that air will open to the same degree so you really
haven't accomplished anything. Manually opening the throttle plates
will get you around an idle speed motor that has failed closed.

All PRV's with aging Lambda systems seem to suffer fluctuating idle
speeds. You can simply unplug the frequency valve (on the passenger
intake rail) and see if that smooths things out (of course your
emissions system will be inactive thereafter -- very bad in the fine
state of California). I suppose a failing idle speed motor could do
the same -- just unplug it to see (if I'm not mistaken the butterfly
plate stays in whatever position it was last at).

The hose you're pouring gas into is the PCV breather. A vaporized
product like ether is better -- much/most of the liquid fuel is
probably falling into the valve cover. Even ether is no substitute for
a properly functioning fuel delivery system (it's actually quite harsh
on the valve train), so I'd make resolution of this issue an early

Which brings up a good point: You are going to have to prioritize all
your repairs. Cosmetic blemishes, interior issues, stainless steel
doodads, will all have to wait. Even fuel delivery may have to wait
until you've ensured the chassis and suspension is in good repair.
DeLoreans have some particular achilles heels: lower control arms,
fuel tank plate, front extension (steering rack & radiator), trailing
arm bolts, and rear axle hubs. I'd check those first, because failure
in any could send you into a ditch.

Sooner or later your fine new ride will make you mad enough to drop it
out of an airplane, fire it from a cannon, or any of the other
outlandish schemes frustrated owners have come up with. Don't. The car
is made out of plastic, so the impact won't be quite a spectacular as
you hope. You'll lose the opportunity to converse with fine upstanding
people like us (let's be honest -- how many former owners stay in
touch?). And those schemes are probably illegal in California anyway.
Take a deep breath. Drive away in one of your other vehicles (surely
you haven't put all your transportation eggs in the DeLorean basket).
The little silver car *WILL* look better in the morning (from the
right angle they do look rather like they're smiling -- or are they

Bill Robertson

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "T. Madsen" wrote:
> Hey folks, my name is Tony Madsen. I wanted to ask u all a question
since u know alot about these cars. I recently picked up automatic
#5470. It has sat for around 3 years or at least was not registered in
that time. it has trouble starting...takes sometimes 2-3 minutes of
cranking...I think they let it run out of gas, who who knows what's in
the carb/injectors/lines. After it starts, it runs well so it has
trouble initially getting fuel. I drove it 45 miles home, at various
speeds and on the freeway. it doesnt stall when idling, but goes up
and down a bit probably because of any junk thats in the injectors,
etc. what do u suggest? i can put gas down the fuel hose to start it
off the aircleaner, that works. a couple other issues with car, like
non functing speedometer, fuel guage, radio, door lights (all 6), and
one brake bulb on the drivers side bc card is bad. lother wise, the
cooling system has been updated (new hoses, etc), cooling fans do some
one, has new spark
> plug wires and alternator. man died so I dont know what all has
been done w/ car. any help is appreciated. thank you, Tony, Im in
SunValley/Burbank, CA
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