Re: [DML] Re: stage II - Automatic?
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Re: [DML] Re: stage II - Automatic?

This info could not have crossed my inbox at a better time. I am about to
pull my engine and trans out of my D, hopefully Sunday. The only reason I
have decided to pull the trans is because I want to clean it up a bit and
change the fluid and filter, and maybe some of the seals depending on how
things look after i get it out. I have an Eagle PRV thats going to be put in
which is freshly rebuilt soon as i get the shims from Volvo and the B280F
cams from a Volvo repair place.

I will use syn fluid in my trans now.
How many others agree with removing the kick down cable?
I will work on an idea for the fluid cooler, when i get one I will be sure
to pass it along.

David Rucker

On 9/24/07, Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>   Full synthetic oil will add considerable life to the automatic and
> let it run cooler. The torque converter heats the fluid quickly and
> constant heavy load will generate some very high temps (over 200F).
> The synthetic fluid will resist breakdown and burning of the
> clutches. There is so much heat generated you have the potential to
> overheat the engine since the cooling tube is before the engine.
> I have experimented over the years with my automatic and observed
> others. I have run mine very hard at times, etc. and there are some
> things, in my opinion, you should and should not do.
> DO - use synthetic fluid and provide some sort of additional cooling
> CLOSE to the torque converter. I use Grady's cooling fins for the
> tube - it helps some - and I put a flush-mount trans cooler on the
> outside of the frame behind the shock (you can barely see it from
> behind and looks normal - nothing ugly - it is a custom car aluminum
> type). This gave me another 1/2 to 3/4 quart of fluid and removes
> some heat BEFORE the cooling system cooling tube which I left
> functional.
> DO NOT - use a trans cooler that is mounted on the front of the car.
> My observations are that this will cause the trans to fail. The pump,
> in my opinion, cannot handle the fluid movement over that distance.
> I've seen too many fail with one of those things mounted up front.
> DO - disconnect the "kick-down" switch on the throttle cable spool.
> The kick down, again my opinion, causes harsh shifting and can cause
> 3 to 1 downshifts and up-shifts which, in this trans, is destructive.
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> BTW I don't think my automatic is a slug - I'm probably quicker than
> most 5 speeds 0 to 60. (that's right!)
> -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <>, "David
> Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I don't know if anyone has had a Stage II long enough to do any
> > long-term life tests. You have to figure everything in life has
> > trade-offs and compromises. It would not surprise me if a Stage II
> was
> > harder on the stock transmission. There are steps you can take to
> > maximize the life of the transmission. Change the fluid often,
> always
> > keep the level at the right amount, do all of the external on-car
> > adjustments, add another transmission cooler, and never drive on a
> > defective shift computer. Cooler is always better for automatic
> > transmissions. With the added power you will be pushing through the
> > torque convertor (and the added heat) I think an additional oil
> cooler
> > would be a big benefit. I would try to do it up front by the
> radiator
> > and maybe even disconnect the one on the water pipe if longevity of
> > the transmission is what you are after.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <>, ryan
> williams <rydelo81@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've heard some people say that an auto trans doesn't last long
> with
> > the added horsepower, so i've been debating on whether to do it or
> > not. As you said the stock prv in an auto is quite the slug.
> > >
> >

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