[DML] Replacing the Fuel Filter Canister, Copper Washers, and the Man Be
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[DML] Replacing the Fuel Filter Canister, Copper Washers, and the Man Behind the Curtain



I just wanted to share with the group, my experience
replacing the Delorean fuel filter, and the invaluable
advice of David Teitelbaum, the man behind the
curtain!  

The summary version of this experience, under the very
helpful direction of David Teitelbaum, is:  to avoid
leaks when replacing your fuel filter canister, use
some silicon sealant (I used Permatex RTV Silicon
Sealant and Adhesive) and lightly coat both sides of
the banjo bolt copper washers, reassemble the fuel
filter fittings tightly, and wait at least 20 minutes
before trying to start the car.  Presto!, no leaks. 
Thanks David!

If you are a novice like me and would like step by
step direction, please read on (if this can all be
posted by the moderator):

First the preliminaries, I ordered the complete fuel
pump from DMC Houston which comes with the replacement
fuel line filter canister.  I am a novice Delorean
tinker person at best.  To begin with, I disconnected
the car battery.  Next, I drained and cleaned out my
fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump assembly and hoses
with filter going into the fuel tank baffle assembly,
and the external fuel pump boot and fuel hoses
connecting to the fuel lines, without too much
problem. Along the way, I also did a lot of frame rust
treatment. 

Then, after putting about 7 gallons of fresh gasoline
in the tank, I was down to the last part to replace,
the vertically positioned fuel filter canister, which
is about the size of a 16oz bean can, and located to
the left (driver?s side) rear of the car in the area
of the transmission.  Couldn?t be that difficult, I
thought, just a fuel filter.

Because I had rebuilt the fuel pump system, I didn?t
have to worry about the fuel filter holding gasoline
under pressure, which is the normal case when just
replacing the fuel filter in the pressurized system. 
I first removed the hose clamp and fuel line hose
going into the bottom (input) fitting of the filter. 
Please note that my bottom fuel line had long since
been modified to a rubber hose and clamp, because the
bottom line should be a steel tube and not a rubber
hose.  It?s best to have a small bucket or something
to catch the left over gasoline which might leak out
of the bottom line/hose when it is removed.

 Then I  removed the one accessible rusted bolt
(soaked with penetrating oil) holding the fuel filter
canister bracket.  With the filter bracket loosened, I
was able to gently tilt the 
vertical fuel filter canister to allow access to the
top fuel line connection.  Again with penetrating oil
I was able to remove the rusted nut connecting the top
fuel line to the 
fuel filter canister banjo bolt.  I was then able to
remove the fuel filter canister from the car.  With
additional penetrating oil, I removed the bottom elbow
fitting, which in my case had the old rusted piece of
the original steel fuel line to which the rubber hose
attached, which I mentioned before (so I ordered and
replaced the bottom fitting with one from John
Hervey), and the top banjo bolt and hollow bolt
fitting.  

Now I assembled these filter hose fittings onto the
new fuel filter, to include the copper washers that
fit on the top (between the hollow bolt) and bottom of
the banjo bolt. I treated the holding bracket for
rust, and replaced the old rusted bracket bolt with a
shiny stainless steel one.  I then tightened
everything up, hooked up the battery, and tried to
start the car.  That?s when the problems began!  Not
only would the car not start up, but when I looked
underneath the car in the direction of the fuel
filter, I saw gasoline dripping all over the floor. 
Upon careful inspection, I saw that fuel was spraying
out the top end of the filter banjo bolt.  John
Hervey?s bottom elbow fitting was holding fast with no
leaks.

So I removed the fuel filter assembly, this time the
system was under pressure so I wore a respirator,
goggles, and gloves.  Gasoline blasted out of the
bottom hose/line when I removed it.  I removed the top
fitting from the filter and inspected for dirt or
whatever was making the filter leak.  I reassembled
and extra tightened everything again and hooked the
filter back into the fuel system.  The same thing
happened, gasoline under high pressure was spraying
out of the top of the filter between the top hollow
bolt and banjo bolt.  After three tries and a new set
of copper washers with the same %@!@#$# top pressure
leak, it was time to call Superman - David T.

David told me to get some 320 grit sand paper and buff
both ends of the banjo bolt, and then take some
silicon sealant (I used Permatex RTV Silicon Sealant
and Adhesive ) and lightly coat both sides of both
copper washers and reassemble the fuel filter.  He
said to wait at least 20 minutes before trying to
start the car.  I followed his directions to the
letter, then turned the key.  No start the first few
tries, but after the fuel system had pressurized (as
David told me afterwards) the car started up! 
Success!!  Just wanted to share this, if you plan on
replacing your fuel filter soon.

Mike
#5781



       
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