[DML] Re: removing catalytic converter
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[DML] Re: removing catalytic converter

Tried posting a reply yesterday, but through the miracle of modern
technology it seems to have gotten lost in the ether (either that, or
the moderator thought it was lame...). Let's try again:

You probably need to use acetylene to heat up the nuts. Go after the
ones holding the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifolds. A nut
splitter might also work, but those are fairly beefy nuts to be
cutting in two. After you free the crossover pipe do yourself a favor
and reinstall it with stainless nuts. Stainless studs would be nice
too *IF* you can turn the carbon ones out. If not, as long as they are
still solid run you can run a die down the studs to freshen their
threads. Stainless nuts will still turn OK off in the future, but I'd
run a die backwards (finish end first) just to clean their threads out
again. The crossover studs are M10x1.25, which is very easy to find in

Your exhaust manifold studs are another story. They most likely are
welded into the heads by electrolysis. I wouldn't try to turn them or
the nuts. BUT, this is a situation where a nut splitter works
perfectly. The exhaust studs are very small (M7) and the nuts pop
right in two (at least mine did on my other engine). Clean up the
threads and reinstall stainless nuts and washers. Rob Grady once had a
supply of stainless M7x1 hardware. If not, contact me off list and
I'll rustle you up some.

While your crossover pipe is off, check out your ignition distributor,
slave cylinder, etc from under the car. Uber easy access, eh? THAT'S
why you want stainless hardware to facilitate future removal. Once you
tune up the car from underneath you'll never try it from above again.

Bill Robertson

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Steven Clark <javelin1973401@...> wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> I'm the guy who's been having all the trouble with
> running rich.  I think I have that fixed, or at least
> close, with a new fuel distributor and wur, plus
> following some other suggestions.  I'll send an update
> as soon as I'm sure.  
> I decided to pull the catalytic converter to inspect
> it as a lot of fuel had gone through the exhaust
> system and I though it may be damaged.  I'm sure it's
> never been off before.  I removed the muffler no
> problem, all four bolts broke when I tried to remove
> them from the back of the cat, where it attaches to
> the crossover pipe.  I didn't figure that would matter
> too much, as I was pretty sure I'd have to go on with
> a new cat anyway.  Now, I simply cannot get the
> converter off the crossover pipe.  I've beat on it so
> much I'm sure the cat is ruined now, so obviously no
> turning back.  It has yet to budge a bit.  I guess
> everything is just fused due to years of heat and
> rust.  All the beating has me worried about all the
> extra stress I'm putting on the exhaust system, and
> it's getting me no where, so I need to change my
> approach.
> So what to do?  I could remove the axle and drill out
> whichever studs I can get to, but it looks like I'll
> only be able to get to one, maybe two with luck and
> the right drill.  Perhaps I could remove the crossover
> pipe and somehow take both out together, but I know
> I'll snap all those bolts too, which will most likely
> result in pulling the exhaust manifolds, and more
> snapped bolts.  Any opinions?  Any other ideas? 
> Thanks to everyone in advance.
> Steven Clark 
> 3316
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's
updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow

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