[DML] Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud
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[DML] Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud

This is if you are lucky. If it is NOT your lucky day you will break
the drill off inside the bolt. Now you have a REAL mess on your hands.
You also have to be real careful to hold the drill exactly centered
because if you bend it while you are doing this it will also cause it
to break. I never had much luck with reverse drill bits but they can't
hurt if you are careful and don't force, bend, and break them off in
the bolt. They are pricey and hard to get too. I prefer to just use
good, sharp, HSS drill bits, plenty of lubricant and patience.
Whenever I try to speed things up or take short-cuts, I usually regret
it. I have had to remove broken taps, extractors, drills, etc. The
worst is when you have to go over someone else's work after they have
buried all that cr-p inside the broken bolt, couldn't get it loose,
and then asked for help. I much prefer having to break things off
myself. Then I can only blame myself. My ultimate tool is an
oxy-acetalyne torch. By heating things up it always makes it easier to
take apart, especially exhaust hardware. I cringed when I read the
post about using a cutting torch and blasting the broken stud with
Oxygen. I have seen it done, (and tried it myself) only on very large
bolts (1 inch and bigger) on large machinery. Always caused a big
mess. I can only imagine what it would do to aluminum. Not enough
control for my taste. Going slow and deliberate with a drill is more
my speed. It takes some machinist skill to be able to finese it right
down the middle. I don't always get lucky but am usually pretty close.
 If you do get unlucky enough to have to remove broken drill bits,
taps, or "extractors" a carbide drill, some water, and a lot of
patience can drill it out. Makes a big ugly mess but with the right
insert you can make it look good. Worst case you get it welded up,
drill a new hole and tap it. Does require removal of the head though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Sean" <sweitzel@...> wrote:
> I JUST went through this with *three* broken studs. Granted, I already
> had the engine out of the car, but the concept I used on all three was
> the same and I was able to extract all three broken studs perfectly
> without having to drill/tap new holes.

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