Re: [DML] Gearbox overhaul

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You don't need to pull the gearbox to do the output seals. You MUST
pull it to do the clutch. Since you do have to remove it because the
clutch is starting to slip here are the things you should prepare for:

Replace the clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot
bearing. If the slave cylinder is leaking replace it, the master
cylinder, and the hose if it is not the braided steel one.

Check the left, front transmission mounting bracket for cracks

Replace any rubber bushings that are worn in the linkage and adjust it
after you reinstall the transmission.

Now here's the part you are not going to like. Since you have the
trans out of the car it isn't all that much more to open it and
inspect the roll pins on the shifter rail. If they are bent they
should be replaced. You should also inspect the 5th gear fork. If it
is bent it can be straightened or replaced. It can't hurt to replace
the input seal but if it isn't leaking it should be OK. When replacing
the output seals you need to use a "Speedi-Sleeve" on the output
flanges so the groove doesn't make the new seals leak.

If the flywheel isn't all grooved up, heat cracked, or blue it doesn't
have to be cut but if it is the machine shop can't cut too much or the
clutch won't work right. Most vendors will recomend the Centerforce
clutch as opposed to the Valeo, I think right now they are both the
same except for old stock.

Do NOT use Hylomar, it will leak. Use a good brand of silicone sealer
on the case halves.

If you do not have a magnetic drain plug order one, you only need one,
the level plug does not have to be magnetic.

Some owners claim synthetic gear oil makes the transmission shift
better especially in cold weather. DO NOT OVERFILL.

Follow the service procedures in the Workshop Manual section "F".

Order an extra pivot bolt for the shift linkage to keep in the glove
box for when the one in the car now breaks.

Work slowly and carefully to avoid breaking bolts. Be careful of the
transmission, it isn't that heavy but if it gets away from you it can
crush fingers. When reinstalling the transmission do not force it. If
it doesn't go back right take it out, figure out what is stopping you,
fix it, and try again. You can do this on jackstands with a creeper
and a floor jack to take out the trans. Just do it on a smooth, level
surface, like a concrete floor in a garage, not a rough driveway
outside if possible.

You might also want to service the C/V joints. You will need the C/V
boots and clamps, a lot of cleaner and grease.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Chris Hawes" <christopherhawes@...>
wrote:
>
> My car has had one of the drive shaft lips seals leaking for some
time (not
> quite the 5 years I have had the car) so it is something I have
always meant
> to get around to.


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