[DML] Re: Yet another Idle question

["Elvis" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

Bill,
don't make it so complicated.

1. is the idle switch ok ? 
2. is the idle switch being pushed correctly ?
3. verify it again
4. when the idle still hangs and you tested the switch
with the engine off - test it again with the engine running !
(push the lever it to close the butterflies completely)
The vacuum behind the butterflies may prevent them from closing 
completely because the shaft is worn.
I've seen and heared of this problem more often then I heared 
of a defect temp sensor (actually not even once !).

When the idle switch is not pushed, the idle ECU increases
idle speed to something above 1000rpm !!!!

Elvis & 6548



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Bill Koenig" <dmc06976@...> wrote:
>
> I'm having some trouble diagnosing a problem with 6976.  It starts 
up 
> and runs like a champ, however when the engine warms up, the idle 
> gradually increases to the point that it doesn't go below ~1500rpm.
> 
> Now I've heard people say its the thermistor, but I been in the 
valley 
> of my car and I don't want to return unless I am sure that is the 
> problem.  I wanted to test the thermistor (and possibly the whole 
idle 
> system).  Is it true that I should measure the resistance of the #9 
& 
> #11 wires coming off the ECU when the engine is cold/hot?  I read 
> someplace else that on a cold engine, resistance should be around 
10K 
> ohms, and it should drop considerably after the engine is warm (if 
the 
> thermistor is working).  Except I couldn't get a reading connecting 
my 
> voltmeter to those two wires, so instead I was measuring resistance 
at 
> the #9 and #11 pins on the ECU (which I realize now was a stupid 
> mistake).  So I'm wondering - does anyone have any guidance to 
offer?  
> Or perhaps an alternate means of testing my idle control system?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> (and VIN06976!)
>




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