RE: [DML] Cap and Rotor removal/Instrument cluster power problems
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RE: [DML] Cap and Rotor removal/Instrument cluster power problems



My experience with the distributor cap was similar to your experience
with thermostats...


I first tried to replace the cap and rotor as you are about to, but when
putting in the new parts I didn't quite get everything seated just
right, and the cap sat a little high on the distributor.  When I went to
clip it on one clip worked fine, and when I tried to force the second
one (its still a little cramped and hard to see everything you are
doing) I broke off the clip.


That led to pulling the intake manifold off and doing a lot more work
that needed doing anyway.  The moral is the same as what you learned
from the thermostat - if it doesn't seem just right, its not.  Make sure
everything fits well and don't force anything, and you won't have to do
it twice.


While you have your metering unit slid forward, also take a look at your
heater control valve that is down there, and consider bleeding your
clutch (if it's a 5 speed).





From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Marv Hein
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 9:22 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Cap and Rotor removal/Instrument cluster power


Thanks, John. 

Removing the air horn is in my bag of experience from a couple of 
thermostat replacements. Once to install a new one, once again to 
fix the leak I created the first time. :)

The rest doesn't sound any harder... I'll give it a shot.


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <> ,
"John Hervey" <john@...> wrote:
> Marv, It's not that hard. 
> Remove the air horn on front. 2 bolts on ea side and one in the 
> Now air flow meter is loose, then with a 5mm allen wrench remove 
the 2
> brackets that hold the air flow meter between the intake runners.
> Now lift up and pull forward enough to remove the cap and rotor.
> No gas lines or fuel distributor to remove.
> John Hervey


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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