Re: [DML] Front Suspension
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Re: [DML] Front Suspension

1. You don't need a pickle fork.  For all of those taper-fit 
connections, loosen the nut, but don't remove it, apply or leave some 
tension on the joint, and , using a 24oz ball-peen hammer, pop it real 
good on the outside of the joint.  When you hit it just right, it will 
turn loose.  Stephen taught me this method.  You need a dead eye and a 
strong swinging arm.

2. The hardware that holds the upper ball joint to the a-arm is shown on 
5-1-0 of the parts manual.  So far as I know, it is standard 8.8 metric 
stuff, 6mm.  We sell it.

3. Bruce is right.  Close and strengthen the wallowed-out hole with a 
big washer.  Apply epoxy or some protecive material when done.

4.  Have the lower arms strengthened by welding plate material across 
the bottom and re-inforce the hole that the lower balljoint fit thru. 
When you powder-coat the lower arm, you may have to run a hone thru the 
bushing hole to get the bushing to fit.  We refurb the lower arms for 
$350 each.

You will want to consider our suspension upgrade components, the 
performance shocks and Eibach springs, when you're ready to put it all 
back together.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
281/441-2813 Fax

Todd Nelson wrote:
> List:
> I'm finally getting around to rebuilding the one system on my car that I have not done anything with, the suspension!  Currently it is 100% stock and very obviously so.  My question for you all is actually a few...
> 1. I plan to replace both upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and would like some advice on the best way to remove them.  Keep in mind I will be taking out both upper and lower control arms.  Is a pickle fork really the only way to do this?  If possible I would like to salvage the old pieces.
> 2. From what I can see (and what I've read) the upper ball joints are held to the control arm by means of 4 rivet type fasteners.  I've read that when reinstalling new upper ball joints, nuts and bolts can be used in their place.  Is this true?  And if so, what type/grade bolt should be used.  Is there a vendor that supplies these?
> 3. In my suspension investigation I finally found my odd rattling sound, it turned out to be my right-front shock was lose where it attaches to the shock tower.  Unfortunately from being loose so long the excess wiggling seems to have worn away at the hole in the shock tower where the shock bolts through.  This has made it seemingly impossible to keep the shock from wiggling around inside.  This may be fixed when I replace the shocks and get new bushings in that area, but I'm wondering if there are any other suggestions on how to repair this area.
> 4. Since I will have all of the control arms, stabilizer bar, and rear links removed I plan to have them sand blasted and powder coated.  Is there anything I should tell the powder coater?  Such as parts of the control arms and rear links to not get any powder on?  I would think the area where the bushings are pressed into place would need to stay bare metal, as well as where the lower ball joint is pressed in place.
> Thanks!
> Todd Nelson
> 1561, Vermont

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