[DML] Re: Front Suspension
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[DML] Re: Front Suspension



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Todd Nelson" <tan5732@...> wrote:
>
> List:
> 
> I'm finally getting around to rebuilding the one system on my car that I have not done 
anything with, the suspension!  Currently it is 100% stock and very obviously so.  My 
question for you all is actually a few...
> 
> 1. I plan to replace both upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and would like 
some advice on the best way to remove them.  Keep in mind I will be taking out both 
upper and lower control arms.  Is a pickle fork really the only way to do this?  If possible I 
would like to salvage the old pieces.



   Since you will be replacing all this stuff, a pickle fork is your best bet. Their are different 
methods available for removing the tie rod ends and lower ball joints if you were going to 
be saving them. But the only way to pop the upper ball joint loose is a PF. 


> 
> 2. From what I can see (and what I've read) the upper ball joints are held to the control 
arm by means of 4 rivet type fasteners.  I've read that when reinstalling new upper ball 
joints, nuts and bolts can be used in their place.  Is this true?  And if so, what type/grade 
bolt should be used.  Is there a vendor that supplies these?



   Usually the ball joints come with the necessary hardware. You will have to drill out the 
old rivit heads and carefully punch the reminents out of the control arm.



> 
> 3. In my suspension investigation I finally found my odd rattling sound, it turned out to 
be my right-front shock was lose where it attaches to the shock tower.  Unfortunately 
from being loose so long the excess wiggling seems to have worn away at the hole in the 
shock tower where the shock bolts through.  This has made it seemingly impossible to 
keep the shock from wiggling around inside.  This may be fixed when I replace the shocks 
and get new bushings in that area, but I'm wondering if there are any other suggestions on 
how to repair this area.  



   Without seeing a picture of the damage it is hard to give advice on this. however, you 
may want to use urethane shock bushings. They are firmer than rubber and will hold for a 
long time.


> 
> 4. Since I will have all of the control arms, stabilizer bar, and rear links removed I plan to 
have them sand blasted and powder coated.  Is there anything I should tell the powder 
coater?  Such as parts of the control arms and rear links to not get any powder on?  I 
would think the area where the bushings are pressed into place would need to stay bare 
metal, as well as where the lower ball joint is pressed in place.



   I believe you can have the powder coater mask off the areas you don't want powder 
coating on, especially areas that require press fit tolerances.  I don't know if you were 
planning on powder coating with the bushings in place, but I don't think it would be a very 
a good idea to attempt to remove the upper control arm bushings they require some 
special setups to remove, oherwise you will damage the arm. The other thing to keep in 
mind is that the Rubber in all the suspension bushings is rated at 250 degrees.  Typical 
powder coating processes cure at oven temps of 350 - 450 depending the method of 
coating used.


Hope this helps 

Dennis 











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