AW: [DML] Door Solenoids and lock modules.

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

All you need to do to prevent the solenoids from being fried or yourself
from
being locked into the car is installing a low amperage circuit breaker that
needs to be reset manually. Typically a 5...10A type will be perfect.
Whenever
the current flows longer than a few seconds, the CB opens the circuit and
remains open until you push the button. No chance to burn the wires anymore
!
If you ever have to push it, it tells you that the relays were or are
stuck -
replace them !

Since I replaced my relays about 4 or 5 years ago I never had a problem with
them, so it seems as they do last several years before they may fail.
Anyways - instead of disconnecting the whole unit get a CB. Of course
nothing can beat Toby's new digital module where somebody really did some
great engineering.
As long as the solenoids are fine I would use them and with the CB they
should last forever.

If somebody is interested in the CB let me know, I can provid pictures and
details. Price for the part itself is less than $10, I payed around $4....

Elvis & 6548...just rolled out of the assembly line in Dunmurry ;-)




I have an unusual store regarding being locked in. Just after I purchased
my D, I was having issues with the doors not locking and unlocking
properly. So I decided to disconnect the lock module. The next time I tried
to get out, my door wouldn't open! I ended up having to crawl out of the
passenger side. Turned out the locks were not aligned and it was the
solenoid that gave it "the extra push" to unlock it. By disconnecting the
module, it would only unlock using the key! Fixing the alignment took care
of the issue.

Another another D I've worked on, I noticed that the unlock part of both
solenoids were fried. While it is common to have the stock lock module
freeze with the doors locked, it's also just as common to have them freeze
being unlocked! Of course most people don't typically notice their doors
being stuck unlocked while driving down the road or getting out.

I think it's a safe bet that anybody with the stock module and solenoids
either have a nonfunctional locking system or are on borrowed time. I would
highly recommend doing one of the following:

Disconnect the large white connector on the stock module and forgo central
locking/unlocking.
Rebuild the stock module using the guide in the tech section.
Replace the lock module with the new digital controller.
Upgrade the solenoids to actuators.

Or best of all, both of the last two!

Chris
VIN 4099






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