[DML] Re: Overheating question

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I DO crank it up to the full 15 psi. The way I handle the hose is to
just loosen it at the radiator, not take it off. Sometimes you have to
wiggle or twist it a little to "break it loose" so the air can come
out. By going up to 15 psi you compress the air so there is not as
much to get out and it comes out faster. You will know when all the
air is out and the coolant starts flowing. You will hear the hiss stop
and then see the coolant. Just use a shop rag or a paper towel to
catch the coolant. You do not have to get every ounce of air out. The
radiator does self-bleed a little. That is why there is the venturi
effect in the pipe going from the radiator to the coolant bottle. The
thermostat housing is a different story. Air will accumulate there. It
can accumulate to such a point as to prevent the water pump from
circulating the coolant. That is why it is so important to have a
"tight" cooling system. A leaky system will draw air in as it cools.
This will eventualy cause the system to be "air bound". The
self-bleeder kits only deal with the symptom, not the actual cause. If
you find that installing a self-bleeder "fixes" an overheat problem
you should really fix the leaks which in many cases will be the seals
and gaskets under the intake manifold or the 25 year old radiator.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Johnny Sawyer" <johnny.sawyer@...> wrote:
>
> Use a perssure tester on your header bottle but don't crank it up to the
> full 15 pounds, (that's how I found out what anti-freeze tastes
like).  Get
> it to about 2-3 pound of pressure.
> 
> Climb under the front of your car and VERY carefully remove the small h







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