Re: [DML] VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak
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Re: [DML] VIN#04421 Lives Again and Rough Idle - Vacuum Leak



Testing a switch is not "rocket science". You remove the switch from
the circuit by disconnecting the wires and hook a meter or a buzzer to
it. When open, and it is a normally open switch, just hold the
throttle open, and the buzzer should not buzz or the meter should be
reading infinity (or at least a very high reading). Closing the switch
the buzzer should buzz or the meter should be reading a very low
reading. Depending on your leads and the meter you will see either 0
ohms or maybe a tenth or 2. It is important to remove the wires
otherwise you will read the resistance in the rest of the circuit, you
are not really measuring only the switch. Do not depend on hearing the
click. I have seen micro switches fail electrically and still click.
It is also important that the throttle stop and the micro be adjusted
correctly. If you slam the switch too hard (the adjustments are not
right) you will eventually ruin the switch. Micro switches correctly
installed last millions of cycles. If you have any real concern about
the micro correctly activating the idle circuit you should test it all
the way back to the idle ECU. This proves out the wiring, switch, and
plugs all the way back. On 5-speeds I have seen where the idle switch
is incorrectly plugged into the spot for the automatic kick-down switch.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve" <p2freak@...> wrote:
>
> Tom,
> 
> That's a good point.  I thought that's the way the switch is supposed
> to be, 28.7 Ohms open circuit.  If 28.7 Ohms is incorrect, then idle
> speed ECU can easily get confused, turning the idle speed motor on and
> off randomly, causing idle problems.
>







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