Re: [DML] Brush with Death
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Re: [DML] Brush with Death



HI Jake,
  Yes, we did use that.  I also remember thinking "wow, 270lbs of torque!?".  No matter what, I think it would always be a good idea to retorque everything again after 100 or so miles if you do any type of suspension work.
   
  Erik
  

Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
  Did you guys use locktite on the nut when reinstalling? I recently had my 
rear end apart to fix the ol' DeLorean clunk syndrome and I put locktite on 
it for reassembly with no issues so far (about 400 miles or so).

I also torqued the bejesus out of the thing :-)

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Erik Geerdink" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Brush with Death


> I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that this has happend too. I 
> replaced my frame last spring. WHen I went to drive the car I noticed the 
> rear end swayed a bit. I know I torqued EVERYTHING down to spec as I made 
> a check list. I drove it like this for about 50 city miles as I worked 
> other things out. I figured i needed an alignment. I went to do some 
> brake adjusting in the rear and notice my rear drivers wheel was loose on 
> the hub! I retorqued it down and now my handling is perfect.
>
> erik
>
>
> Woody wrote:
> Replying to the "Top Speed" took me back to a near disaster experience
> I had a couple weeks ago and the lesson learned.
>
> My present daily driver Delorean is a car I purchased on e-bay 2 years
> ago. The car had not been driven in 10 years so I went thru all of the
> fuel and fluid systems. As part of the process of rebuilding the rear
> brakes I removed the rotors and hubs. It took my impact wrench to
> remove the nut that holds the hubs on the axles. During reassembly, I
> retorqued the hub/axle nut to spec.
>
> For several months I have felt like the car has not been handling as
> well as my previous D, and after checking the wheels for axle movement,
> discovered some play in the front axle. I replaced the bearings in
> this wheel but still had the feeling of oversteer. I suspected that
> the original shocks were the culprit, but I still planned to pull all
> of the wheels again to double-check the axles.
>
> Before I "got around" to a second check of the wheels, I experience a
> drive train failure while going about 15 mph. When I'd engage the
> clutch, there was grinding sound and no movement forward in reverse.
>
> At my shop, I lifted the rear of the car expecting to find a clutch or
> transmission problem. Instead, I discovered an axle nut that was so
> loose that the wheel was about to fall off of the car! The splines on
> the hub were completely worn away; fortunately, the axle is made of a
> harder steel and the splines were still intact on the axle.
>
> The lessons learned or relearned:
>
> 1. It's very important to recheck torques after removing/replacing
> critical components.
> 2. When something doesn't seem right on the car, immediately find and
> correct the problem before driving the car again, particularly if it
> may be related to a drive, suspension or fuel system. This failure
> cost me an $80 hub, but it could have cost me my life (see 120 mph post
> earlier today). Same thing applies to fuel systems (A local mechanic
> was not as lucky when received severe burns as a result of a fire
> caused by fuel leaking from a banjo fitting on the fuel distributor of
> a Delorean.)





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