RE: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!
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RE: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!



Toby,

Another point you might consider Toby is to have some harder spacer washers
made and supply them with your kit as you may not be aware of how soft they
are. When I last checked a few years ago as I recall their hardness is about
22 C-scale. As I'm sure you do know that is basically cold rolled un-heat
treated steel which is pretty soft. I have long suspected the washers, after
the mandatory double-nut technique the factory omitted, as the primary
culprit in the loosening of the pivot bolts. A check with a prominent washer
manufacturer about the economics of their making proved insufficient to
justify. As the Toby TAB guru you are in a better position to reach a
break-even point faster than my shop but if you and the major venders were
interested I could pull the trigger on it or leave it to you to supply
them...any thoughts?

Rob Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Toby Peterson
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 5:29 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Checked my TABs.... AARG!!

Nathan - There are a couple of points that I would like to make 
here.  In addition to the causes noted by David in this post, 
another possible contributor to the joint loosening up is wear on 
the large flat washers that are part of this installation.  I have 
seen many of them that had substantial wear.  This wear is started 
by one of the other causes - mostly by bolt stretch - and once the 
joint is slightly loose, the movement will quickly wear the 
washers.  Make sure to flip the washers to offer a fresh wear 
surface when the bolts are replaced.  The washers will eventually 
need replacement.  Second point - DO NOT allow the alignment shop to 
use aftermarket thin shims for the alignment.  They always want to 
get the alignment exact, but the thin shims I have seen often will 
crush down and drop out, which starts the whole process over again.  
You will notice that the DeLorean spec shime are thick and hard - 
this is a good thing in a clamped dynamic joint.  If you can't get 
them to use DMC shims only, at least insist that the thins shims be 
installed in the middle of the stack, so that the DMC shims are in 
contact with the trailing arm and the bushing sleeve.

If you let us know, we can have a set of TOBY-TAB's sent to Garden 
Grove for your car.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> 
wrote:
>
> If the shims are missing it would indicate either there never were 
any
> shims, the bolt is bent, or the bolt loosend up either because the
> shims were crushed, the bushing spacer was crushed, the bolt 
strechted or bent, or the nuts loosened up. In any case you should 
replace the bolts and get a 4 wheel alignment. After the alignment 
you should record the # of shims with a magic marker on the frame 
and in a logbook you should be keeping on the car. If the bolt is 
bent or loose it is very dangerous to continue driving on it. There 
is no set # of shims. It varies from car to car. There is a limit on 
them though. You are not supposed to exceed 5 shims per side. Take 
the alignment specs with you to the alignment shop. He can enter 
them manually into his machine to do the car. Most shops will not 
have the Delorean specs in their database.









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