Re: [DML] 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine
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Re: [DML] 3 Brass Screws Infront Of Engine

Hi Alistair

On most cars, the brass screws should be screwed all the way in gently. 
If they're making an obvious difference on a warm engine other than just 
picking the idlespeed up when you undo them, then there's something 
wrong with the idlespeed system elsewhere. The slotted screw is a bleed 
past the throttles, the next two then divert to one or other bank, so 
with the slotted screw all the way in, the other two do nothing, unless 
you undo them so far you start getting a vacuum leak, which I'm 
wondering may be the problem here.

I've banged on about the brass screws on a few occasions before :-) But 
the quick answer is no: you won't break anything by playing with them.

A hunting idle on a cold engine still equipped with a lambda system is 
quite normal. If it starts perfectly from cold, then hunts for a minute 
or two and suddenly stops, (sometimes changing to a slow very slight 
wavering of revs) with the frequency valve still buzzing, then she's 

All the best


Alistair McCann wrote:

>Hi everyone
>My car has been hunting at idle (cold) for a while now but it sorts 
>itself out when the engine is hot but I wanted to cure it so I turned 
>the 2 screws that are infront of the air box and now the car sounds 
>even worse, I turned them clockwise about 1 full rotation each.
>I am not sure how to correct it and I can smell gas so I know I have 
>made the car too rich but what screw does what???
>I know not to touch the screw with the slotted head but the two in 
>front of it are really loose and can turn by hand with no effort.
>Is there a way I can go back to the start and set them without 
>damaging the car.

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